Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Nov 24, 2005 06:03pm | #1

   If you're going to be spraying often enough, I think it's a good idea to have spray equipment Pat. Either a conversion HVLP spray gun that works with your compressor or an HVLP turbine unit.

   But spraying in the basement can be a BIG problem. First, you need a "sufficient supply of fresh air" in order to spray any finish. That means you need fresh air coming in from outside and an exhaust fan to move air outside. That's true no matter what you spray. If you're spraying flammable finishes, then you need an enclosed, explosion proof room that contains the fresh air system.

   Paul
   http://www.finishwiz.com

2. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Nov 24, 2005 06:14pm | #2

   I'm an ex-car painter...I bought a very nice HVLP gun, the ECO Asturo to use with my Ingersoll Rand 5 hp compressor.  I set it up exactly per the instructions supplied by Homestead Finishing.  It's not a cheap gun, but in the two years I've been using it, I've forgotten about the price and know that EVERY time I pick up the gun, I'm going to be glad I bought it.

   Using Nitrocellulose lacquer or Shellac, I can get a damn fine "off the gun" finish that just requires minor burnishing and waxing.

   I get no orange peel, no runs if I'm careful.  I use it in my dusty shop w/out explosion-proof fans, etc..and have been doing so for two years w/out even...not that I'm recommending that..but I do it and have so w/out negatives.

   I hear less glowing comments about the true HVLP setups that, somehow, heat the air and cause some kind of problem..but I have no experience there.

   Good luck!

1. 
   mudman | Nov 25, 2005 07:19pm | #3

   By "true HVLP" systems I guess you mean turbine powered. I have a Fiji 4 stage (suposed to be one of the best on the market). The gun that came with the unit is not as good as yours, probably not as good as a lot of the turbine guns out there :-(   The issue of the air being heated is a love hate situation. When spraying finishes with solvents that flash off quick, like lacquer, you have to use a lot of retarder to keep the finish from drying in the air before it lands on the work surface. It seems hard for me to prevent orange peel. The pluss side is that the finish set up faster (especially shellac). With heavy bodied finishes like water base, poly and oil based interior paints it sprays real nice and the is definately less overspray than what I got from good Binks guns. If I could start over..... I think that I would get a compressor based system.

   Mike

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 26, 2005 08:10am | #4

   I swaer by accuspray http://www.compliantspraysystems.com

   alos ILO of painting kitchen cabs you should try  tinted poly get it from the same place. They can custom tint it for youLong Live REZ.........ROAR

1. 
   KesslerCraftsman | Nov 26, 2005 06:36pm | #5

   The polyurethanes that I've tried are way too heavy to spray effectively and take way too long to dry to tack.

   When I want more durability the conversion varnishes are what I use...fast dry, durable and fairly easy to use...

   If you'd share specifics, I'd be interested.

    

   lp

1. 
   Sancho | Nov 26, 2005 08:07pm | #7

   Not the water base poly, dries quick is very durable especially if you add a crosslinker which increases the water/scratch resistance. I can spray 3 - 4 coats a day depending on the temp.

   The stuff I use is from enduro. It is sold by the folks who seel accuspray HVLP turbine and conversions guns.  Its all I use anymore. Great stuff. I just recencently sprayed a entry door  in place w/o any over spray. 3 coats in one day. Its been about 6 months and no complaints. I added the crosslinker for extra strength. again its sold at

   http://www.compliantspraysystems.com.

   I dont have to thin it b/c it is formulated for spraying. I use their versamax lvlp b/c I only have a 1 1/2 hp 4 gal emglo compressor and it works great with it.

    

    

   Edited 11/26/2005 12:12 pm by Sancho

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Nov 26, 2005 07:03pm | #6

   >> I hear less glowing comments about the true HVLP setups

   Not quite sure what you mean by that.  Both turbine and conversion are considered true HVLP.

   That said, you are correct, the consumer grade turbine systems can be problematic with fast drying materials.  The turbine heats the air which causes the materials to dry before they get a chance to flow out propertly.  Commercial turbine HVLP systems run the air through a heat exchanger to remove the heat before it gets to the gun.  Some also find that the larger hose tends to restrict getting into tight spots.  Some tests I have seen also indicate that a good conversion gun does a better job of atomization.Howie.........