I’m building a tool cabinet from Baltic Birch. This will be my first attempt at spraying. I have a Fuji Semi Pro system. I would like to apply a clear, durable finish. Can anyone provide me with recommendations? Poly, Lacquer, water based, etc. Also, how many coats to get a decent surface.
Thanks!
Dale
Replies
Two thoughts: One, if you want a surface coating, as you seem to, I would definitely go with conversion varnish. The positive part is that it's probably the most durable spray finish, a real plus for a tool cabinet. The negative part is that when, not if, you get scratches it's a hard finish to do spot touch up on, not impossible, but tough. The 2nd thought is an oil finish, and there are lots to choose from. Although it doesn't have the hard shell surface protection of CV you can easily wipe on more when you get scratches and dings.
It depends on the purpose of your finish.
Water based poly is easy to spray and clean up and gives very good protection in only 2 coats. Generally does very little to highlight the grain of wood.
If protection from spills is not an issue then lacquer is quick and easy to apply, will highlight the grain and is easy to repair.
If finish durability and appearance are key, but protection is not important then a penetrating oil based finish is best. Mineral oil will highlight the grain and look the same when dinged but offers little protection against water. It's a great choice for a tool cabinet as banging is part of the gig.
Also don't neglect leaving it unfinished. It's shop furniture after all.
Personally I'm a fan of Danish Oil (brushed on is best though) - best of both worlds - easy to apply and penetrates to give a good look, whilst also providing some spill resistance. Also very cheap. For a tool cabinet, that or the water-based poly would be my choice.
For a beginner, working with water soluble poly takes away the hassle of handling and cleaning with hazardous solvents (and buying them) . And it’s very tough, tougher than most oil based varnishes and tough enough to be a excellent wood floor finish nowadays. General Finishes has a comparative chart for its product as that lists the hardness and abrasion resistance of its varnishes.
To stick to spray finishes only:
I don't spray finishes that are solvent based anymore. There are just too many potential negatives to spray something such as traditional laquer. And I do all my spraying outdoors.
For a little color, I like spraying Zinsser Sealcoat. Yes, it's solvent based, but only ethanol. It's not very durable, but dries wicked fast, and it's beautiful.
Hydrocote Resisthane is made for spraying, and doesn't need thinning. It's a precatalyzed water based laquer. Very hard wearing.
Water based poly sprays great and is durable. I like the General Finishes products.
I don't care for water based finish on bare wood. It lacks "soul." Unless I want no color added, I spray Sealcoat first, then either Resithane or poly over that.
I have a Fuji 4 stage turbine system.
I am a very inexperienced sprayer having only done serious furniture spraying this past summer. My schedule, depending on which species of wood I'm working with, is to apply dye for color, then a light coat of Seal Coat, then 2-3 coats of Varathane water based poly. For a beginner, I got great results. In addition, all of those materials are very easy to clean up and environmentally pretty friendly. Win, win, win. I'll let others address the durability issues. I'm sure there are more durable products for professional or experienced users, but this serves my purposes for now.
If you do decide to go with water-based conversion varnish, some well known brands are Target Coating's EmTech, General Finishes Enduro, Mohawk Waterborne Conversion Varnish.
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