Hello Gentlemen, (and possibly ladies)
I have started doing some woodworking projects now that the kids are off to college and have had some early successes with some small projects but I can see right away that finishing is the biggest obstacle to my ‘perfectionist’ ways. I’ve been thinking that a spray system of some sort might be in order but really have no clue what’s what. I don’t do a huge amount of projects, maybe six a year or so, and have limited space as of right now. I was thinking of making a collapsable spray booth of some sort, but am more interested right now in figuring out what I will need in order to ELIMINATE THOSE STUPIDS NUBS AND IMPERFECTIONS IN THE FINAL FINISH!!!!! ok I’m better now. While we’re at it, how do large cabinet shops finish their products? Their finishes seem perfect. Oh, and before anyone says just use an oil and wax finish, most of my projects call for a harder finish. (at least I think so)
Thank You.
Replies
Cabinet shops largely use spray finishes that dry so rapidly that they have little time to collect dust from the air. Their spray booths also typically filter the air entering the booth. A good spray finish makes a good, although not superior, finish much faster and with practice, easier. Jeff Jewitt's http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com has a good selection of good quality finishing systems, and a call can yield excellent advise about choosing a system.
But, that's not the only way to eliminate dust nibs. With more work, but yielding results that can surpass any of the manufactured cabinets, you can simply rub out the finish. Let it cure as long as you can--best a month for oil based varnishes, several weeks for waterborne acyrlic finishes, and a few days for shellac or NC lacquer. Then starting with the finest sandpaper that will work--typically 600 grit wet/dry paper and a padded sanding block, sand the surface to just remove the nibs, other defects, and for the finest work, to level the finish so it has all been evenly "scratched" by the paper. Then jump to about 1200 or 1500 girt paper and remove the sanding scratches left from from the 600 grit, then shift to a polishing compound. When I want a gloss finish I use rottenstone on a felt pad lubricated with paraffin oil. For Satin fine pumice works, and you can also get a satin finish with 0000 steel wool lubricated with oil, wax, or water. Commercial rubbing and polishing compounds also work well. A finish worked this well leaves commercial kitchen cabinets in the dust, but is so much work that it is only really justified on fine furniture. Doing a whole kitch of cabinets with full blown rubbing out would be a massive effort.
For less critical work, another thing to use to eliminate dust nibs is to take a brown paper grocery bag, crumple it to soften it a bit, and then use that to rub off the dust nibs.
Spray ?
Lone - B
I would hold off with spray equipment for now.
An easy finish - dust free = brush on 2 coats of shellac - sand well - 2 coats of wipe on varnish.
SA
your not alone
I think unless you were an autobody guy finishing is tough for all. As to the dust contamination on your projects spray equipment while helping to lay it down, but the environment will do more to impact your finish along with drying time. Depending on size of your project building a cardboard minature booth with a large appliance box will help also there are plans for box fan filter combo's that you can build to pull air away and help catch the overspray and keep stuff from settling as much. If it's a large piece if you have the space build a plastic room around it. I did that with a blanket chest i did. bought a large roll of plastic heavy duty sheeting and stabpled it to the ceiling in my garage and put the piece inside for a day prior to spraying to giv all the stuff time to settle down. Helped a lot. Choice of finish can impact you as well. Some finishes tack quicker and gives it less time to get impacted. Light coats and each appication will get easier. However if you finish in the same space where you work (I have to) then I clean the area as best I can and then wait a day to let it settle as much as possible and when I do finish I try not to disturb it much. Finally use HVLP. i had a regular gun and it just needs too much air moving. Also when you get sprayer find out if blows air even when not in use. There are two types.. My system when not putting finish down does not require the air to be going through the gun so it also minimizes air blowing around. Finally accept that some dust devils will get there but you can work them out after that first coat pretty easily
Lonebadger
I got one of those Earlex HVLP systems recently for the same reasons. It is fine for the small number of projects I do. But I had a long learning curve, as I keep finding new ways to screw up the finish. It's also fairly messy and wasteful. I switched from oil-based poly to water-based or shellac for spraying. I think that brushing lacquer is easiest hard finish and just as fast as spraying.
Spraying
I spray everything, everytime I have tried finishing another way, it was a daunting task by comparison.
With the best finishes available today, you don't need a booth or special requirements.
With a good HVLP gun, you can put the finish exactly where you want it and a couple of fans will remove the overspray.
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