I’m building a set of cabinets for our laundry room so I’ll have to seal the inside of them. Can one of the “plastic” finishes be sprayed on? I’ve sprayed shellac, lacquer, and latex, but never tried varathane. I’m concerned about bubbles in the finish, would thinning help?
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Replies
You don't really want to spray any oil based varnish. It dries slowly enough that you end up with a sticky mess from the over spray.
Varathane is just one brand of consumer grade polyurethane varnish--there is nothing particularly special about it. All varnishes commonly available today are based on a plastic resin--Varathane's use of the term liquid plastic is just marketing language. The polyurethane's primary advantage over traditional resin varnishes with alkyd or phenolic resins is abrasion resistance, not protection from household chemicals or moisture vapor.
The last cabinet I built I used pre-finished plywood for the boxes. Saves a whole lot of trouble.
Oil based varnishes have been sprayed successfully, and extensively, for decades.Don't be misled by bad advice. There are lots of links if you Google "spraying oil based varnish or urethane" with great tips on thinning, tip size, and other good info. If you're going to be spraying you could also look into water-based, low VOC, spray finishes. Here's just one good brand, with pro and consumer 30 minute dry times. https://generalfinishes.com/sites/default/files/documents/files/2020-06/gf-product-comparison-chart-enduro-topcoats-general-finishes-20200618-with-branding.pdf https://generalfinishes.com/sites/default/files/documents/files/2020-06/gf-product-comparison-chart-topcoat-general-finishes-20200618-with-branding.pdf
Relax. I've sprayed many a gallon of polyurethane with excellent results. I thin it about 10-15%,(depending on the gun), with turpentine. The turpentine smells a bit, but it improves the flowout. My gun is a DeVilbiss JGA style, suction feed, with a cup. (Conventional, not HVLP.)
I have only brushed varathane,and had to thin it for brushing. My best guess is no,you would have to add too much thinner.
mike
I've sprayed both oil-based and water-based polyurethane with my HVLP with good results. I usually thin the oil-based poly with ~10% paint thinner.
With either finish, I go for a pretty fine spray and go over each piece several times allowing a few minutes for the last pass to "set" before spraying it again. The objective is to get good coverage without creating drips or sags.
Dave45--
What type and brand HVLP do you use? I'm looking for a good suction feed (cup on the bottom) because I really like the way my conventional DeVilbiss JGA handles and feels.
I have a Campbell Hausfeld. I've had it for 3-4 years and don't remember the model number.
Had any problems with it? Likes? Dislikes? How big a change is HVLP from the conventional I'm used to?
No problems after I figured out how to use it (viscosity of the paint, poly, etc) and what settings worked best.
I can't say how much different it is than a "conventional" rig since I went straight from a Wagner Power Painter (a real POS as far as I was concerned) to the HVLP.
I think that the best part of HVLP is the low overspray and easy cleanup. I only have to clean the gun after I use it.
IMHO, Ray, this seems like the time for you to start, or brush up on, learning about the ease and many other advantages of cross-linked water based acrylic lacquers.
Cheers! :-)
All I want to do is seal the interior of some cabinets ( as yet unmade ). The cabinets wil be installed in an unheated laundry room and should be sealed. Since there are a 'bunch' of cabinets, I wondered if spraying would be an easy and quick way to do them all at once.
The cabinets wil be installed in an unheated laundry room and should be sealed. Since there are a 'bunch' of cabinets, I wondered if spraying would be an easy and quick way to do them all at once.
----------------------------------------------------------Probably so, if indeed you have an HVLP system especially, and are going to use one of the new water based acrylic lacquers – specifically the crossed-linked ones. Else, (and there are several other options) you could generously brush on some heavy coats of good old fresh shellac (1-2lb cut) as the classic sealer/finish and leave it at that.Know also that this reply may lead only to other questions -- which are invited. Cheers!
Ray,
It's not a real good idea to use an oil-base finish on the interior of cabinets (or drawers). The smell will linger for a looong time. Waterborne finish or shellac is the standard suggestion for interiors. Both of those spray easily and dry quickly so you can get the job done in a day. Oil-base varnish can be sprayed with great results but it makes a hell of a mess as the over spray settles and gets everything it touches sticky.
Rob
I have sprayed the Varathane water base semi gloss finish with great success over Maple doors, stair treads, base & casing, plinth blocks and the finish will dry fast for recoating 30 to 40 minutes in 70 degree weather. I will be using it over Oak this week.
It has good sanding between coat caracteristics like lacquer. It requires a light sanding between coats and the use of a tack rag.
Remenber to stur and use a cone paper filter with the finish.
Edited 12/10/2007 1:01 am ET by TonyCz
Thanks Tony, I can use that. I picked up some "South American Hardwood" veneer 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch plywood at a very reasonable price, it's just too pretty to paint. A bit too nice for 'utility' cabinets, but the price was right.
I sprayed my kitchen cabinets with Minwax poly and they turned out great. I also shot the body of my bass guitar with the same stuff, thinned both times with naptha (about 20%+). I talked to a painter about how to get the best results and after telling him that I used mineral spirits but had flaws, he recommended naptha because it flashes over faster and flattens better. I have to say that he was absolutely right. I have a gravity feed Harbor Freight HVLP conversion gun, which I bought purely as a way to try one and stick my toe in the water. It was $39.95, on sale and I have absolutely no complaints about it, at all. I brushed the poly on the base cabinets and it took a long time, probably as long to do only face frames as it did to spray the uppers, which are face frame/maple plywood, so all interior surfaces were sprayed, too. Way faster, less messing around and better results than brushing. I drank the cool-aid and unless it's a small piece, I have no plans to brush it on again. The same gun works great for shellac, too.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Ray,
Why spray? Couldn't resist that rime! Seriously, you could build the cabinets out of two sided melamine and not have to spray or finish at all. the melamine won't leave that oil based smell as described in one of the previous posts and the stuff is practically bullet proof. You'll never have to put down shelf paper and it will resist any moisture. In fact you can clean this stuff with lacquer thinner and it won't faze it. If you've never worked with it, all you need is a melamine blade on your table saw, some Roo Glue,screws, and some edge banding to seal the ends. And you can always glue some real wood door skins or veneer on the showing sides if you want a natural wood look. To me this would be a no brainer!
Danny
Brush it on. To speed things up get a small foam disposable roller that you can toss afterwards. If you have problems with runs paint all the horizonal surfaces on the cabinets, wait a bit, and them turn them all to the next batch of surfaces. Goes on nice this way.
Do the most visible surface last. Maybe first and last so you get two coats on that surface.
Does anyone have any details on spraying Varathane Ultimate Water-Based Polyurethane with HVLP? Which tip size did you use and did it require thinning? Any other tips appreciated too. Thanks!
I used Varathane water based urethane quite a bit this past summer with great results. I used a cheap LVLP gun with a 1.5mm tip with no thinning. For the cabinet interior, I would definitely use either a water based product or shellac. As stated above, with an oil based product, the interior will smell for a long time.
One other point not mentioned, spraying the interior will raise quite a cloud of over spray right back into your face. If you can leave the backs off while you are spraying, this will help a lot. Otherwise, I suggest you brush it on.
I went ahead and tried it using the gun I had, and all-in-all it worked out ok, but it definitely wasn't as nice as spraying lacquer. My HVLP gun has a 1.4mm tip, and I had to open the fluid all the way up and thin 5-10% with water. Still, it came out with orange peel texture; it didn't lay down a nice even, wet coat. I found a video describing similar issues: https://youtu.be/fV1ucVAOjkI
I agree that a retarder would help, but I'm guessing better/different equipment and more experience using it would help too. I'm still happy with my outcome, but it's a low-build satin finish, so not very noticable.
Next time I'll probably look for a product that's formulated to be sprayed and that the manufacturer has guidance for.
If you sprayed the interior without removing the back, I suggest that the source of your problem was in the blow-back not allowing the prodect to properly get to and stick to the surfaces you were aiming at. Also, a lot of the product was blowing around going all directions and this was largely the cause of the orange peal effect.
As I said above, I used a lot of this product this past summer with excellent results. You shouldn't blame the product.
Years ago, maybe 15,I made a couple of end tables for a lady. Interesting person, worked for Dwight Eisenhower, not that it matters...
I was required to use Varathane to finish (water based). Can't remember what my gun was, probably same HVLP I have today.
Used the same kit I used for lacquer. It worked out nicely. So go for it.
With that said, Always read the use instructions and make a finish sample if you are using the product for the first time.
15 years ago, you say? Same year this thread started.
“[Deleted]”
Yeh. I didn't notice the date either. However, most of the comments are still valid today. So, for information/learning purposes, it's OK.
Oil based stains have been showered effectively, and broadly, for decades.Don't be deceived by awful guidance. There are loads of connections assuming that you Google "splashing oil-based stain or urethane" with extraordinary tips on diminishing, tip size, and other great data. In the event that you will splash you could likewise investigate water-based, low VOC, shower wraps up. Here's only one great brand, with master and purchaser brief dry occasions.
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