Replies

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Mar 19, 2022 07:50pm | #1

   It's been many years since I used the stuff so take this with a huge grain of salt.
   I used it first in the summer in Charleston SC. Used the same setup I used for lacquer. It was a joy to work with.
   The second time was later when it was cold. I did read the TDS when I used it the first time, there was no mention of temp. This time it crazed and had to be stripped. I later found the minimum temp was 70 degrees.
   To make a long story short, I think you will be fine with your Lacquer setup, read the TDS and most important of all do a finish sample. In my case temp was a big factor.
   Always do a finish sample using the same schedule and under the same conditions you will be faced with on your final piece.

2. 
   eddo234 | Mar 20, 2022 10:51am | #2

   Which Mohawk CV? For example, their 275 has much lower viscosity than the 550. Go to the Mohawk site, they have PDS’s for all their products. There are tips for how to handle the lower viscosity 275. In general, CV has more solids than lacquer, depending on the lacquer CV can have 2-3 times more solids, but the lower VOC 275 may be more comparable to lacquer (but I haven’t used that, so I can’t say for certain. The waterborne CV has lower solids. I’ve never had a blushing issue with CV, even on very humid days, that’s more of a lacquer or shellac issue, but not CV (although humidity with slow its drying time).

3. 
   howlandwoodworks | Apr 01, 2022 08:18pm | #3

   They are a witches brew do not deviate from the (manufacturer specification)
   Call them they have all the information you will need.
   If you are going to paint often keep a log each time you paint of your finishing process:
   1.  Viscosity, with a viscosity cup in seconds
   (As specified by manufacturer)
   2.  It's thickness, with a wet film thickness gauge.  As you spray count the seconds per foot as you move across the surface to achieve a consistency in the desired thickness. Some finishes have a maximum build.  You will need to know the percentage of solids by volume of paint after it has dried.  33% solids by volume at 4 mils thick wet, will be 1.33 mils dried.  3 coats will be 4 mill after drying.
   (Finished thickness as specified by manufacturer)
   3.  The humidity as well as room temperature and the paint or finish temperature.
   (It would be best to stay with what is specified by manufacturer)
   4.  Time of day and was it sunny cloudy. UV helps in the drying.
   5.  And your mood for the next three days after finishing.
   Your paint respirator mask has no gauge on it to tell you if it is working or not. Your brain does. If you smell paint it is not working and will cause damage to your health.
   I do not question your knowledge, but since this is a public forum, simplified discussion is sometimes beneficial to everyone else's understanding, as I am certain you are aware.