I’ve made a bunch of cabinets that have Melamine interiors. In the past I’ve attache the face frames to the plywood boxes and sprayed everything all in one shot. Obviously these boxes don’t have to be sprayed so should I:
1) finish the face frames before I glue them to the boxes.
or
2) glue the face frames on now then mask off all of the Melamine before spraying.
Thanks, molten
Replies
Since the backside of the face frames won't be seen, you could spray them before routing or cutting dados, if that's how you'll attach them to the boxes. Masking the melamine completely would be a pain, unless you have something like a contact paper that could be cut to size.
I like the idea of NOT having to move all the boxes around during sprauing so I plan to spray the frames then attach them. Thanks to everyone.Molten
I've done it both ways and I would rather spray the frames attached to the boxes. You never need to worry about touchup/dings. Plus you can put the frames on with clamps/glue and use very few nails, if any, which means no puttying/matching stain on the nail holes. I've done alot of kitchens this ways over the past 20+ years
The best way is to let someone else do the finish, but that problably isn't going to happen. I hate finishing, even if it's for our own home
Molten,
I am making several assumptions: you are shooting these in the vertical position and your shelves are removable. Make several shields out of 1/4" ply with a thick base that will allow the shield to stand upright and resist the force of the spray. The height of the shields should be slightly higher than inside the height of your face frame. Make the bases slightly more narrow than the width of the shield to permit multiple shields to overlap. Put handles on the shields. You have several choices: you can place several shields in the cabinet and overlap them to completely cover the interior or you shoot and slide the shield as you complete an area. Overspray comes off melamine quite easily with lacquer thinner. The trick is to remove the shields without bumping the face frames but that is rarely a problem when using one shield. Try to keep the bases as functional and narrow as possible to facilitate removing the shield.
Doug
I used your method today and it worked great. ThanksMolten
Molten,
Glad it helped and hope your project turned out well.
Have a great Thanksgiving.
Doug
It's easier to finish the frames and attach to the box. You don't have to move the box around when you finish the frame. Just make sure the finish is cured and you use something to protect the face when you clamp it to the box. Use a tounge & groove or biscuit setup for alignment of the frame.
What we used to do in the past was apply a 1" strip of masking take alon the edge of the melamine where it contacks the face frames. We then card board to tightly fit on the side of each open and set it back about 1/4" from the back of the face frame. Even with using an airless, were rearely had any over pray get on the melamine. Other painter/finishers I know use 12" masking paper applied the same way as the cardboard. The masking paper is cheaper, but the cardboard is alot faster. We just stockpiled cardboard and reused it when ever possible.
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