I’d appreciate advice regarding spraying water based products like poly-acrylic and water based poly (same thing?), water based lacquer.
I really like the low toxicity and pleasant odor. But especially the water-white (non-amber) final appearance. I’ve been brushing various products. I have used just about every brushing technique and cannot get a satisfactory surface. This stuff just does NOT flow out like oil-based varnishes.
So I want to try spraying. I’ve read all the great advice about HVLP equipment and the fact that the new spray guns provide the proper atomization.
Can I spray this stuff with my high pressure equipment? I realize that the gun needs to have stainless innards to avoid corrosion. Can older high pressure type guns properly atomize water-based?
Thanks,
Rich.
Edited 9/4/2002 1:04:47 PM ET by Rich Rose
Replies
I have sprayed nitrocellulous lacquer with a Binks 95 HP (suction feed) gun more than anything over the years. Over the last year or so I have switched to Enduro waterborne poly on 4 large projects (10 chairs, stair rails, 8' dining table and 14 chairs). I shot the 1st 3 w/ my Binks. More orange peel than w/ lacquer (no burn-in)but nothining that required any more leveling time than lacquer which I usually wet sand w/ water. Can't wetsand the poly without waiting for a full cure, but if you spray light coats 30 mins apart the Enduro powders just fine w/ brass or synthetic steel wool. The last project I sprayed with an older, borrowed Apollo HVLP turbine set-up. Very little overspray but a lot of orange peel. Obviously new gun (to me) learning curve related. Next big job will justify the new gun from Accuspray and a home built turbine.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Thanks John.
I'm getting much more orange peel with brushing water based than I get with brushing oil based. What am I saying? I get NO orange peel with oil based. Oil based levels out like glass.
Sanding is a real adventure. I cut right down to the wood with no effort at all after 24 hours drying.
I'm going to try spraying with several high pressure devilbis guns this weekend.
HVLP equipment is way down on the budget list. Why in the world they want so much for the equivalent of the output of a shop vac?
Rich
Rich;
To be honest, I read you post and I'm not really sure what your question is. If it's simply "can I spray water-base with a conventional spray gun?" the answer is yes.
No matter what you spray, you should use the appropriate needle/nozzle size combination for the thickness (viscosity) of the material.
Water-base is more sensistive to oil and water from your compressed air. You should have at least a filter at the gun to reduce contaminants.
You can get a good HVLP conversion spray gun that will work with your compressor for $100 - $300 (or more) depending on how much air your compressor provides (in CFM) and how good a spray gun you want. The major advantage of HVLP over conventional is less overspray.
Paul
F'burg, VA
I reconmend you to get Jeff Jewitts book "Great wood finishes" and Andy Charrons book "water base finishes" I think you'll learn all you need from these 2 great books Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"
Thanks guys.
Knowing that water based polyurethane can be spayed using a conventional gun is enough info. I can go from there. It was the admonition from several sources that a HVLP gun was necessary to achieve proper atomization of the "new" water borne products that concerned me.
Rich
On your Apollo thin your finish to about 29 seconds using a viscosity cup. Shoot a wet coat using a #2 tip and needle at about 9 ". I if you spray from much further away the finish will start to dry before contact, especially in hot weather.
rick
Which viscosity cup? There are a number to choose from and they each measure viscosity at different rates. For example, 29 seconds on the Ford #3 is the same as 22 seconds on the Ford #4.
Paul
F'burg, VA
I forgot the name but it is supplied by Apollo with the sprayer. I will get the name and reply .
rick
Thanks for the tip. Will wait for your reply to the "which cup?" post. I did have better results at the ends of the day and had the most trouble in the heat. Sort of the opposite luck I've had with lacquer. Spraying too early or towards the last couple of hours of the day as close as I am to the beach would almost always guarantee blushing. I would think that an intercooler for the turbine output would help as well. That air gets pretty warm.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
Life is tough. It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne
Yes, as I undersand it, the company that make the Rigid line did produce for Sears. Again, as I undersant it, Sears demanded a price cut and the company that makes Rigid refused to go that low. So Home Depot came in to make it their line - Rigid.
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