Has anyone had sucess spraying clear waterborne finishes? Spraying in a small garage with a gas heater has me concerned. I also am aware that water based clearcoat leaves something to be desired. Is there a way around this? I was told i could use a oil based stain under a water based finish is that correct? I use a hvlp gun.
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I have used Homestead Finishing's Oxford lacquer (waterbourne) with good success. It drys about as quickly as solvent lacquer and can be found in flat and satin gloss as well as gloss. I have found that it its harder to find the right spray gun setting for the viscosity of this product. I have been told not to thin a water based finsh. You also have to be careful to filter the clumps out or they will log the needle.
I tried an aerosol poly lacquer from General Finishes but did not care for the heaving coat it put down. It also was ridiculously priced ($13.50 per small can). You can buy a gallon of good lacquer for $30.00, or less.
Basically, I'm going to use waterbourne when I have to work indoors, and nitro lacquer in nice weather. The lacquer just gives you more options for rubout and recoating, I think. Just my opinion, and I am not a professional.
I use Oxford PSL WB a lot. It "burns in" between coats as nitro lacquer does. However, it is harder so rub-out is a little more difficult. The color is "water-clear", so if you want the amber of nitro you have to use a tinting agent such as TransTint. I don't really like the color this imparts. It's more of a yellow than an amber, so I usually just shoot it clear. I use the same needle/cap for nitro and WB, and it works fine.
I'm using the Oxford waterborne conversion varnish with a conversion HVLP gun and am very happy with the results. Of course, this is the first I've ever sprayed so I don't have anything to compare to. The second coat did burn in very nicely. I layed down a coat of Zinsser Seal Coat (2# shellac) first to minimize grain raising and to give some depth to the maple and pop the grain. The result has a very nice warmth to it vs. the normal "water clear".
Given the lousey air quality in the SF Bay Area I just can't bring myself to use any of the oil-based stuff - also don't want to live with it while it outgasses all that formaldehyde - especially in drawers.
Thats all I spray anymore. A good w/b finish can be used over a o/b stain. you just have to let it dry a good long time. LVLP or HVLP should be no problem spraying inna garage with a water heater. You couldd also buy or tint the w/b finish to give it the yellow o/b stain look. I have also seen tinted sanding sealers for this purpose also.
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Water borne especially poly is my finish of choice for wood I want to stay natural such as maple. I've used it in my garage with an HVLP system but it must be warm (I'm in SoCal) If you are using a dark wood such as cherry, mahogany etc you loose so of the warmth of the wood with water based. I usually do at least 3 coats and usually do 4. Then I hand rub using various grits to 2000. Makes an excellant finish. It needs to be strained before putting into the gun and I have used the home depot brand and a more expensive brand from Rockler. Both do the job. Spraying technique is critical and if you are new to spraying then you need to study up on how to spray (not hard) Once you get it down you'll love spraying with waterborne.
Im in Orange County :>)Buck Construction View Image
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Fallbrook, CA
THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND ENCORAGEMENT. I WILL TRY IT ON MY PROJECTS FIRST. THANKS AGAIN.
I use Endurolac and EnduroPoly almost exclusively. If you have a couple of weeks to let it cureout, you can use oilbased stain under it. I have had adhesion problems using it over BLO without a dewaxed shellac barrier coat. For best results you should raise the grain and lightly sand with 220 before shooting w/b. That said there's no added work to use water soluable dyes so think about trying out Transtint.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
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