I can use some advice on a dining room table project. It is solid pine, with perpendicular grains., and measures about 5′ wide by 10′ long.
The table was factory painted, and has since been stripped and sanded to bare wood. I applied 2 light coats of clear Zinnzer shellac, then a single coat of General Finish Oil based stain. The 2nd coat of shellac dried too fast, I guess, as the stain showed a lot of the shellac brush marks, despite my sanding efforts. I subsequently re-sanded the stain out, and likely most of the shellac.
As this point I’ve applied 2 coats of the GF stain, and really like the color. It’s not blotchy, and has a nice appearance.
Due to the perpendicular grains, I was thinking of HVLP spraying Waterlox Original, stain finish. I’ve had issue with waterlox in the past, as far a brush strokes, and would like to avoid the issues where the grains intersect.
Questions/Advice:
Do I add a coat of shellac before the waterlox? If so I’d likely spray this to avoid
brush marks.
Should I go with HVLP light coasts of Waterlox directly over the stain? Again, despite waterlox’s applications method of lambswool/good brush, I’m not comfortable with the grains and the large surface area.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
Zinsser shellac has wax in it, which is perfectly all right if you are doing an all shellac finish, but you don't want to put another finish over it. It is also typically a 3lb cut which is way too heavy for a sealer coat, (unless you thinned it) thus your brush strokes.
Zinsser's seal coat is a 2 lb cut of dewaxed shellac. You should still thin it to a 1-1.5 lb cut for a wash coat. Brush or pad it on, I would not try to spray it. Level with some fine sandpaper or scotchbrite.
Wipe on the Waterlox and then wipe off all the excess, build coats this way.
It would be wise to make up a finish sample before committing to your project unless you want to completely redo it again
Rob,
Thanks for the feedback. I think I'm beyond the Zinsser in that I now have 2 coats of General Finish, oil base stain. Are you proposing that I still try to wipe on the Waterlox, despite the large surface area and the perpendicular grain?
I've used a lot of Waterlox for many years. It is my preferred finish. I only use a brush on places where I'm just applying a single seal coat. Otherwise it is too heavy a coat. My first coats I like to use a scrap of bath towel, as it holds a lot of finish and doesn't leave a lot of lines. Again, you are looking for a smooth coat. I tip the surface (as one does with a brush) in the grain direction to smooth out the coat. This can be done with perpendicular grain; choose the right sequence. For example, for cabinet doors where the rails are between the stiles, I do the rails first, coming onto the stiles, then do the stiles without touching the rails. Don't sand the surface at all until you have enough build to be sure you don't sand thru the Waterlox to the stain. This is typically two to three coats; more for figured grain where some areas soak up more finish.
After the build coats (once I have enough build), I sand to level the surface and switch to much finer surfaced rags, and even lighter coats. Mostly you are filling scratches from the sanding. Once the build is done and the scratchs are filled, sand with 400 grit or finer Wet/dry sandpaper wet with mineral spirits, then rub out with #0000 steel wool wet with mineral spirits. Wipe down with clean mineral spirits and let dry. For the last coat, I make an applicator similar to the "mouse" used in French polishing; get a small ball of cotton and wrap with the finest thread cloth you can find; I use a piece of an old men's handkerchief. I rubber band it together. Apply a thin coat, just wetting the surface to remove the haze left by the steel wool. If the sheen is not uniform, apply a second coat. Here you want the coat to be thin enough that it dries before any dust can settle on it and stick. Note that Waterlox dries (solvent evaporates) fairly quickly, but it hardens by absorption of oxygen over days or weeks. It is easily damaged when freshly applied. I try not to touch it after the last coat for at least 3 or 4 days. And there may be times when you need to let a coat harden a day or two before it is ready to sand without gumming up in the sandpaper.
I have only used a lambs wool applicator when applying Waterlox to floors, where a heavy coat is desirable. Much too coarse and tending to drop fibers into the finish; not suitable for furniture.
If this isn't clear, or you have other questions, feel free to ask.
harvey,
Thanks so much for the specifics. You've clarified why I've had issues with waterlox in the past. I tended to 'over work it', and was a bit impatient before doing the sanding, and typically would sand through the initial coats. When I applied the stain I was able to get a rhythm to deal with the perpendicular grain, but stain is a lot more forgiving as far a blending or drying time goes.
I'd sure like to spray the waterlox, but I haven't seen too many posts where this was successful so I'm willing to give your method a try. Perhaps if I can get the first coat down I will ease my anxiety.
As I understand it, GF oil based stain is actually a mixture of oil, pigment stain and varnish. It seems to me that the shellac coats would have prevented the oil and stain from penetrating to the wood, and maybe caused the trouble. What was the intent of the shellac in your schedule?
The shellac, as I was told by a local woodcraft finish 'expert', was to provide an even surface for staining. Since the table is pine, it has a reputation for becoming blotchy when stained. That wasn't case as after removing the stain, and the bulk of the shellac the stain went on nicely. You are correct, in that with the shellac the stain went on more like a glaze, and the color wasn't close to what I was after.