Spring-board or Feather-board- Router??
A while back I made a spring-board for my router table to try instead of a feather-board. I still use my home-made feather-boards on fence to hold down work-piece. I wanted to try a spring-board to hold the work-piece to the fence. I found IMHO that it is safer and I have much more even control of the work-piece after it moves past the cutter-head. Less chance of a slip and mistake. I liked it so well that I made one for my table-saw to use for horizonal control for ripping.
Anyone used one and what are your thoughts ???
Replies
Never had the pleasure of trying one but there was a Methods of Work tip from about two years ago in Fine Woodworking No. 143 illustrating such a device. It seems like it would be an improvement over featherboards for stock of varying widths or if the fence is frequently readjusted. One question: how strong or stiff is the spring in order to keep stock tight against the fence?
Ricky:
You should try one. I also saw it as a shop tip in some wood mag a while back. Can't remember which. The tipster said he read it in a book circa 1930's I believe. I love it.
There is no actual steel spring. "Spring" comes from like in diving type spring-board. It's completely a piece of scrap wood. You can make one in an hour, depending on how many cups of coffee in between. Ha.. The T-bolts and knobs are the main expense and you don't have to have them. The board can be clamped down on the router table.
I took a 8" x 24" poplar board and ripped 2 pieces 1" wide off. You now have 3 pieces. 6" and 2 of 1". I took a Home Depot paint stir-stick and ripped to 3/4" on B/S. Cut 2 pieces 1 1/2" and 1 piece 4". The shims are 1/8" thick. Glue the two 1 1/2" pieces to the front leading edge of the 3/4" board on the outside. Apply the first 1" strip to those 1 1/2" shims and glue which will leave a 1/8" gap between the main board and the first 1" strip except at the ends. Now add and glue the 4" shim dead center on outside leading edge of 1" strip. Glue both sides of shim and add the second 1" strip. Clamp and let it dry. BTW, the last 1" strip you either taper ends at front leading edge (towards fence) or round off with a 1" belt sander. No snag when you push work-piece through. This leaves a 1/8" gap between that 1" strip and the other 1" strip except for the 4" shim in center. Henceforth, you get a spring action like a diving board.
I cut two slots with plunge router for T-bolts to stick thru. I have a mitre slot on my home-made router table and a sliding aluminum track that the T-bolts screw into. This lets me slide the spring-board forward and rear-ward to fence to accomadate the width of work-piece. I lock down with 3/8" 5 star knobs. You can just clamp if you want to keei it cheap.
I hope you can picture this as I'm no technical writer. If you have problems I will take a picture and download. One picture is worth a thousand words. Try one and let me know what you think. IMO this is a one of those little secrets not everyone knows about..IMHO only.
Have a great holiday week-end and any questions shout my way..
sarge..jt
Ricky:
OPPS!!! Got so wrapped in design I forgot to answer your actual question. How stiff is it???
Well, I am proficient with a torque wrench and can calculate lb# on a trigger pull on a sniper rifle. I don't know how to figure out an engineering way of answering your question with the amout of tension on that spring-board. I'm going to do it the best way I know how. I thought about this when I first built it and decided to use poplar. I usually use oak when I build a feather-board.
In the words of an old friend and fellow southerner, Lewis Grizzard; "It's juuuuusssssst right"!! Hope this explains. Lewis is gone now, but when he was alive he had an ole dog he named "Catfish". I suppose with those circumstances, it would be best for you to build one and find out for yourself. If you do I think you'll find the results to be in Lewis's words: "It'll do you proud".
sarge..jt
Thanks for the explanation. The tip I cited had an actual spring in it, which led to the general confusion. Your low-tech solution seems to be simpler (like many effective things). I can build it with materials already lying around the shop (especially the paint sticks since my dad works in the paint department at the Big Orange).
Ricky:
Drop a line as I have never seen anybody else use one of these. I just got on-line computer about 6 weeks ago or so. B-4 that I had to rely on club locals and people I meet at seminars. I'm curious to know what you and others may think. If you don't like it you literally have nothing tied up in the project as it can be built quickly and cheaply.
Say hello to your dad. The guys at my local HD (3 mi. down the road) call to see if I'm sick if I don't show up at least every other day. Ha...Have a great holiday week-end on the left coast.
sarge..jt
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