Spring-board Ripper-Gripper
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I’ve used a spring-board left of blade to rip for several years now. I assume that many use some type of magnetic feather-board or one that works from the left miter slot for this. I tried a magnetic Grip-Tite several years ago but the feather only makes contact with the stock in a pin-point area and prefer the spring-board as it contacts much more area.
I sold my TS a few days ago and have waxed tables.. cleaned cob-webs.. etc., etc. Yep… that is what it come down to being without my TS after 37 years until I have the new one. I saw the Grip-Tite sitting on a shelf collecting dust. Being a tinkerer a thought evolved in my head.
For those that use miter slot feathers… how do you hand wide stock that would exceed the miter slot placement. This might work if you are in that boat as you are not limited to stock that doesn’t exceed the left miter slot. It can be placed anywhere and the amount of contact is as much as you would like.
So.. the Grip-Tite will finally get used along with a couple of pieces of scrap from the scrap bin. Just a thought if you are bored waiting on your new table-saw. :>)
Sarge..
Replies
Ahh! Now I see what you're describing. You know that's just really cool. you have a lot more surface contact than a standard or magnetic feather board and it can be placed anywhere on the table!
Brilliant good sir!
Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration
It's pretty simple, Adam. I drilled through the Grip-Tite and tied the outer edge of my spring-board into one side. I have been using a spring-board on router table and TS for several years. I added another miter slot on the end of the TS with a sliding track but I just sold the saw. Probably everyone can't fabricate that set-up... so for the new one the idea just popped into my head.
You can build it if you have a magnet or an old GT in about 30 minutes. I build my own Crown guards.. short fences.. etc.. as most are made from scrap from the bin. Just looking at it should be self explanatory as to how and I think you already realized that.
Try a spring-board and see how you like it. Everyone I have introduced to it has loved them. And BTW.. I went to your web-site but could not determine your location? Where are you?
Regards...
Sarge..
Edited 7/29/2008 7:18 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Hey Sarge. Thanks for the explanation. I may just be whipping one up for myself this weekend! I am located in Olney, IL. A small town on the Southeast side of the state by Indiana.Adam King Studio
Fine Furniture and Antique Restoration
You're welcome, Dk..
Sarge..
Sarge,
How did you add the extra miter slot to the outside of your old saw? useful trick, that.
Congrats on the new one. Guess you won't be straying far from the booth, just in case some yob spills his coffee on YOUR saw!
Jim
That one was simple to add, Jim. The Uni-saw left extension has 3 5/16" holes pre-drilled to accept an additional extension on that side if you desire. I laminated two pieces of 3/4" MDF together to form 1 1/2" thick piece and ripped it 3" wide. Then I dadoed out a groove to accept one of the universal 3/4" miter tracks you can buy at the goodie stores.
Tight fit and they have holes in their bottom you can use some #6 machine screw in as the holes are counter-sunk to give a flush surface when added. Then I aligned and drilled 3 5/16" holes through the side of the 1 1/2" tall MDF lamination to correspond to the 3 holes in the Uni-saw extension. I counter sunk those holes so the 5/16" hex head bolts were below the surface to avoid possible snag from sitting proud.
BTW... I did 3 coat that MDF with poly to seal. I worked on that saw without movement for almost 2 years and it came off a previous saw it had been on for around 6 years so...
I have found that MDF holds up well laminated and sealed well. I was going to replace my 6 year old.. 1 1/2" home-made router table top a few months ago as I figured the weight of a Milwaukee 3 1/25 HP would have caused sag. Either build a new one or one of the expensive store bought. I put my LV 36" straight edge on it and the center dipped about .004.
I still have the same router table top needless to say. You can't force a knat's *#### under a .004 gap with C-4 plastic explosives strapped on for a booster rocket. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Sarge..
Edited 7/30/2008 12:12 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Thanks Sarge. If you ever write the book I'll be in the queue to buy a couple.jim
A book is not likely as my wife feels it is time to pay for all that has been accumulated in the shop since we've been married which is around 21 years. That request should be ful-filled sometime around 2019 as she keeps plenty of Bic pens and note-pads on hand and plenty of fresh ideas pop up each day.
I got a kick out of the thread about doing WW for friends. I can tell them the truth and tell them to check back in a few years when obligations to her have been ful-filled. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Sarge..
Sarge,
Did I miss some big thread? You sold your table saw? What did you end up getting?
As for the magnetic Grip-Tite, that's a nice modification and looks like an excellent solution when you can't use the miter track feather boards. For the most part, I use two Grip-Tites to increase the contact point, someday I'll get around to ordering the one of those cool magnetic feather boards. The Grip-Tites are a PIA when you have to drop them in-line with the miter track. Also, I noticed that you are using a euro-style half length rip fence. I think I maybe copying you, I recently bought a pair of those Rockler clamps myself for that purpose.... wonder where I put them.
And you found the weak point already, JM. I was moving it around on the sold TS last night after making it and the magnet would allow a slip if it was directly over the left slot. So.. maker of such... BEWARE. :>) In that case I could make another one with a spring-board.. tie into the back side with a say 5-6" piece with glued DT's coming from the left side.
In a case where the magnet did ride over the top of the miter slot.. grab it off a rack hanging beside my TS and just clamp the end of the attaching piece to the end of the TS with a couple of Quik-Grips. It would take another 30 minutes to build that one.
I put my Uni-saw up for sale Monday or Tuesday morning. Had it sold by 10 PM that night as a young gentleman from Auburn, Al. will be by Saturday to get it. Just in case I have two more commitments in case his hot water heater blows up and his wife changes her mind. What a salesman I am. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
I sold the 3 HP Uni-saw to pick up the Steel City 5 HP that will used as the Show model on the floor at the International WW Show in Atlanta in 3 weeks. I was in the market for a used 5 HP and this one is new. Let's just say it was a deal I couldn't refuse as I will helping Steel City set up their booth a week before the Show and working the booth during the Show.
I learned about the short fence from Richard Jones (Sgain Dubh) on this forum and built one about 5 years ago. I use it 100% on all rip cuts after the day I installed the original. That one is nothing more than a piece of 3/4" UHMW (whatever the correct initials) with a few holes for positioning on top of it. Held by those Rockler clamps which allows it to come off quickly if necessary.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge;
Congrats on the 5 horse! I'm one of probably a small camp that is convinced the extra 2 ponys are worth having.
So did you get the CI top or the granite?
BTW there is somebody looking to pick your brain on SC 14' bandsaws on another thread. Some posters are convinced you are lying on your back at the beach with a cold one in your hand!
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You can't wait for inspiration. You have to go after it with a club. Jack London
I do too, DG. I often push 3" stock through with a 20 T flat rip blade and the Uni-saw will do it... just not without a hiccup as a 3 HP.
I'll get right over to that thread.. I might have a real deal if they happen to be going to IWF. I'll explain over there on that thread.
Regards...
Sarge..
Sarge,Congrats on the new saw! So you'll be at the Atlanta show? I was just looking at my travel schedule and it looks like a good chance that I will be out there that week. If I am, I'd love to take a firsthand look at all the cool new table saws (hopefully buying one soon). I'll look for you too. It'll be like a Breaktime Fest!As for the Ripper-Gripper, I'm starting to think that a magnetic feather board is the way to go base on the drawbacks of the Grip-Tite... I mean, I'll at least put it on the list of nice to have/want to have.I do like the short rip fence, I'm thinking that I should have gotten the Unifence for my contractor saw years ago when I choose the Biesymeyer fence instead because that was the fence to have... rock solid. I'll start a new thread tomorrow on the power tool topics about your new 5HP table saw, I've got a couple of questions...
I have been using a couple of those plastic magnetic feather boards from Rocker. When ripping multiples it is very easy to reposition, with one hand I release the magnets. With one hand slide over the feather board over Hold knob while lightly pushing on material and lock in, then grab other knob and push towards material and lock in. Works incredibly well . I have had them for Quite some time now and just figured out how useful they are.
I have one for the band saw . When I have to resaw 1/16" edge banding in multiples, I turn it away from the blade and use the non feathered side as a stop/ fence on right side of blade. It allows me to reposition the fence and keep the meat of board on the saw fence of which I prefer. After each cut I slide fence over while gently holding remaining stock in between fence and smooth side of feather board and lock fence. The consistency of the resawed strips are quite good.
Tom
Edited 7/30/2008 8:54 am ET by gofigure57
Edited 7/30/2008 8:54 am ET by gofigure57
I'll try the method of moving you use Tom, as I have no set pattern of how at this point. My Uni-saw has an extra miter slot on the left end and I use one of those sliding miter bars with 1/4" holes pre-drilled in it. The spring-board is about 26" deep on that set-up with two slot running from table end toward blade. A couple of star knob 1/4" bolts go through the slots and mate the holes in the bar.
So.. you just loosen those and slide the SB forward to contact stock. Then tighten them when you do. Works quite well but most saws don't have that miter which I added. That Grip-Tite has been collecting dust for several years and I was bored so....
I don't use a feather to re-saw as I use a point fence I built from scrap. Actually I have 3 with various height faces for various height re-saws. I set the tension strong for beam strength and just guide by hand which I seem to have developed a knack for over the years. After trying many re-saw blades I use a 3/4" Lennox bi-metal at around $45 for my 137" BS. The cut is extremely good but not as smooth as a WS or carbide tipped. But... I have never seen any re-saw blade that will leave a surface I won't bother to clean up anyway.
Sarge..
That's a Biesemeyer the short fence is attached too, JM. So... you will have the best of both worlds if you add it. I personally think the Biesemeyer is a tiny bit more substantial locking. But.. I like the features on the Uni-fence.
The short fence is nothing more than a piece of that 3/4" UHMW (sp) I keep on hand bought in 4' sections. Taper the ends for ease of entry and exit with some holes drilled in top to accept the Rockler universal clamps. A few turns of the knobs on those loosens and you can move the fence forward or rear-ward.
I do move the front lip to correspond to just beyond where different thickness stock is severed. The thinner the stock the closer to the front of blade before final severance which always happens before mid tooth or highest point of the saw-blade arc. If you had the fence set for 4/4 stock which I extend about 3/4" beyond severance point.. and did not move it if you switched to say 10/4 the fence would end before the final severance. That's a no-no! So.. you can either set the fence ending for the thickest stock you rip and compromise or re-set for more exact as I do which takes only a few moments.
Sarge..
Sarge,Thanks for the information on the adjustment of the short fence. I would NOT have thought that through while running stock by the short fence. Although it seems that you could just set it up for 10/4 and leave it at that. Its not ideal, but it seems like it could be a solution?
It's not ideal JM, but a very viable solution as the difference is really minute I think. Either way you still gain the free zone beyond the fence than could create re-bound off of a long fence back into the rear rising teeth even with a splitter or riving knife under harsh conditions created by reaction wood. With a properly sized splitter or knife it wouldn't happen often... but it still could and trust me on that one. :>)
You are much better off to use that approach and use it in lieu of declare moving the fence forward and backward a PITA and not use the short fence. And BTW.. I do take the short off to do a panel as most kick-back I have had has come from ply panels.
But.. I work with solid wood and a minor amount of ply. Drawer bottoms.. dust shields.. etc. But.. I cut the panel down to working size with a circular before I finalize on the TS. It's the only time I will stand in the lane but not much way around it without a slider or guidance system of some sort. I am very careful to keep the ply to the fence and the fence best not have any toe in with wide ply or you're asking for trouble there.
Some Euro WW'ers would argue you can do that with a short fence and I have.. but the long fence did give some reference with that wide stock. For ripping the short fence stays on as my set-up doesn't require reference beyond the cut. As soon as I finalize a cut.. my knee bumps the kill switch and I let the blade quit spinning before I remove the stock from the table.
Sarge..
Edited 7/30/2008 12:25 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
Edited 7/30/2008 12:27 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
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