Replies

1. 
   RMillard | Jan 15, 2006 11:56pm | #1

   Stock preparation is one of my favorite chores. You have to start by getting one face flat, and then the other parallel. With this out of the way, you plane one edge straight, and then square off this edge to bring the board to the proper length. Then rip it to width. I cut to length first, then rip to width, so I can plane the ends without having to worry too much about chipping out as the plane exits, the wood.

   That is the condensed version, of what I think is the most important step in furniture making ( other than finishing), getting stock to a true, accurate size.

   Rob Millard

2. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Jan 16, 2006 12:10am | #2

   Bodgerman,

   The technique:

   FEWTEL

   F = face:          flatten one face to be flat and out of wind (ie: not twisted)
   E = edge:        produce one edge straight and square to the reference face.
   W = width:      Gauge the correct width off the reference edge and cut/plane
                              to finished size
   T = thickness: Gauge thickness of board off reference face and plane to thickness.
   E = end:          produce one end of the board to be square and at 90 degrees
                              to all four faces
   L = Length:     measure, mark and cut other end of board.

    

   This is the way I was trained and now teach to others (trade cabinetmaker)

   Cheers,

   eddie

3. 
   AdamCherubini | Jan 16, 2006 08:44pm | #3

   I interpret your question as you are starting from a log or some reduction of a log.  Is that right?  The advice you've gotten really pertains to working sawn lumber.  I'm picturing not so much a resaw operation, but a timber conversion or milling operation. 

   Given that, the trick is following the grain.  Good sawyers have ways of reading grain and producing good boards from less than perfect stock.  I'm unfamilair with their ways and tools.  And though I don't know specifically how to do what you need to do, I suspect the answer you are looking for is this: begin by following the grain (obviously longitudinally).

   When I do this job (which I think is a loser economically- I can't process lumber as cheaply as the mill can) I begin by splitting the log in half with wedges.  That split will follow the grain nicely, even if the halves are twisted or bowed or cast.  From that I can usually plane or hew or adz away the high spots and be left with a reasonaly flat surface.   I suspect, given that flat face, you will know what next to do. 

   There are many advantages to this approach: Knowing exactly what the grain is doing is chief among them.  Being able to best fit a flat into the irregular (riven) face you have is next.

   Trying to flatten one side of a log and putting it on a bandsaw (or making some sort of sled  to hold it) may work.  But again, the trick will be reading that grain and (probably) adjusting the log on the sled to give you a little short grain on one end and a little on the other.  If this is your general approach, you may do better starting with half a log.

   I think working with logs is fun and educational. To see some of the techniques I've described herein, don't miss the April edition of PW magazine.  Aside from Roy Underhill and a few others, I never see this subject addressed (which is why I wrote the article).

   Adam  

    

1. 
   Bodgerman | Jan 16, 2006 10:43pm | #4

   Adam:  Thank you very much.  You have it right.  I am starting out with a log.  I'll split 'em in half and follow the grain.  But you give more credit than I have comin'.  What do I do after I get that "relatively flat surface"?  Thats the part I don't remember how to do.  Been thinking about just laying a big square on the log  and marking the lines with a pencil and then just cutting.  That should get me pretty close, not?  I'm trying to end up with a square board but I don't have anything square to start from.   Thanks for your help........

   JimLife may be short but it can be very wide!

1. 
   AdamCherubini | Jan 17, 2006 01:30am | #5

   Jim.I'm the wrong guy to answer your question (because I don't know the answer). Maybe the right guy will chime in here. Having no power saws, what I do is split the top half of the log off. What I'm left with is something I wouldn't call a board. This second split operation is also unrelated to whatever smoothing that was done. In your case, I think I'd be inclined to run a chalk line down the sapwood and try cutting to that with a bandsaw. But don't listen to me. I've only used a bandsaw once or twice in my life.Not to pick on you or be disrespectful, but I don't know why you would want to go to all this trouble to get something you can buy for a couple bucks a board foot. I typically split wood into stuff I can't buy- even at that its often a lot of work that period cabinetmakers never did. They had saw mills 200 years ago to produce boards. Stuff for turning or bending or big hunks of wood is different. Making boards out of logs is work for a mill. BTW, this is a fairly recent revelation for me. I used to buy the "from tree to chippendale" sales pitch. Mahogany came to Philly in the holds of slavers already sawn from South America or the West Indies. Philadephia craftsmen sure as heck didn't go into the woods of West Chester and fell a mahogany and work it into a secretary.But I wish you the best of luck. I'm sorry I can't help more.Adam
   P.S. If you do see that article, know that I wasn't kidding about the adz. Its a scary tool.

1. 
   Bodgerman | Jan 17, 2006 02:27am | #6

   Adam:  Maybe I just  have too much time on my hands.  Actually, this all started because I have almost a whole black cherry tree in my woodpile.  I have been making bowls but started thinking boxes.   I could get to the lumber yard in no time but started thinking handtools and dovetails and things like that.  Anyway, I appreciate your advice......I'll see what happens.  Peace!

    

   Jim MLife may be short but it can be very wide!

4. 
   woodsmanplus | Jan 17, 2006 07:35am | #7

   Hi I hope that I am reading your question right.If I am what you need to do if possable is to find someone who has the equipment to cut your logs into usable lumber with the least amount of waste.Then if this wood is still green you will have to get it kiln dried or let it air dry.At least 3 to 6 mo's.Trying to make boxes out of green lumber can be rather disastrous.Once you have it processed and ready to use,then its time to get out the jointer as discribed earlier and you should be able to square it up without to much trouble.Good luck

   Ken

5. 
   DennisS | Jan 17, 2006 08:41am | #8

   Jim -

   I for one applaud your tenacity in pursuing the production of finished stock from your tree. If, like me your a hobbyist and aren't trying to make a living from this WW craft, then it's by all means a very satisfying process to turn a rough log into a finished piece of wood craft.

   As for your question(s), be aware that I'm one of the Skagit Co WA resident woodbutchers but I'll describe my approach to working with a "log".

   I have a dedicated rip chain for my chain saw (egadz .... that laid me open to a big flame attack! -hahaha-). I'll slab off one side of a short log (I don't work with logs much longer that 3'), I'll slab it off so I have one more or less flat side. If your logs are straight grained enough to split then great. Mine usually aren't. I'll endeavor, with the chain saw to create something of a timber that has one side 8" or less, the capacity of my jointer.

   Once I've got an 8" side reasonably straight with the chain saw I'll run it through the jointer to get a good flat surface. Now with that flat surface I can snap or otherwise mark a line along the log that I can saw with the bandsaw to get two edges, approximately square to each other. I slab off one of the other sides of the log, again getting something that will fit on my jointer, 8" or less. Now I can go back to the jointer and using the first flat side I created against the fence, mill the side I have just sawn on the band saw so it's square to that face. Now we should have one square corner on the log.

   Back to the band saw.

   At this point I have two options .... continue getting a squared up piece or just start slabbing off boards from the log using one of the flat faces on the bandsaw table and the other against the fence. This isn't a very sophisticated approach to sawing lumber I'll be the first to admit it. I don't know a lot about the sawyer's art but you'll get better wood if you know and understand how to quartersaw, rift saw and so forth. But I think, could be wrong, that you first need to establish one square corner on the log to start with.

   I have some short pieces drying in my shop that I've sawn up this way and a word to the wise! Cut the slabs extra thick if you just slab off the stuff from the log. The outter pieces will curl up like potato chips! But it's a helluva lot of fun to take a log, saw it up into boards and make a jewelry box for the grandaughter out of it. Some day she may understand what it all means. (grin)

1. 
   Bodgerman | Jan 20, 2006 06:02pm | #10

   Dennis:  Thanks very much.  You know exactly what I was talkin' about.  I know I could go out and buy a board.  Hell, I could go out buy a box.  I have all this beautiful cherry and just trying to use it for something other than bowls. 

   Many thanks to everybody........now on to dovetails.  I'll be back!

    

   Jim MLife may be short but it can be very wide!

6. 
   Jfrostjr | Jan 17, 2006 05:16pm | #9

   I'll take a different tack at the problem you describe:

   Sometimes the "edge" of a board is too irregular to straighten on a jointer. I then tack a long, STRAIGHT piece of particleboard to the rough board and run the combo through the tablesaw, straight edge to the fence. The saw-cut edge on the rough board gives a place to start the rest of the process.

   Jerry