Replies

1. 
   fdampier5 | May 23, 2003 02:04am | #1

   Use care and I think you can!  (at least I do while building my timberframe house)..  It is critical that the infeed and out feed tables are flat and level with the jointer infeed and outfeed tables.  I use a set of rollars but just about anything will work..  the way I do it is set up everything and check it with a taught string from infeed end to outfeed end..

       I can bang together a set of tables real quick with my no measure method.  What I do is hold the infeed table (plywood, board, etc.)   level with the table on the jointer.  then I attach a set of legs into the side.  (I use a nail gun but a screw gun works just about as well only a little slower..)..   I then use the string method to confirm nothing has moved and put the back legs on.   If they have shifted a bit I either shim up or remove and reattach.  If I'm gonna use this set up for a while I'll mark where the legs touch the floor and brace the legs a bit..

     They basically become table extensions and the purpose is to keep the timber level it's whole length..  (when you are working with 24 foot long 6"x12" timbers you need something to ensure that everything stays level all the way across the jointer..)

     good luck..

2. 
   DavidxDoud | May 23, 2003 05:31am | #2

   be aware that the nature of the grain within the beams may make the beams that you carefully square dry to a much less than square condition - if the beams contain the heart,  they likely will check and crack on one side -

1. 
   fdampier5 | May 23, 2003 10:24pm | #3

   also,

     dry wood will demand much more of your edge tools than green wood will.  I highly recommend that you cut and plane everything green.. then assemble.    (unless you really want to work)  if the design locks everything to gether wood movement will be kept in check (sorry)  However allow for the inevitable shrinkage..  a 6x6 will take about 6 to ten years to dry fully.  

3. 
   GHR | May 24, 2003 05:53pm | #4

   How close to square do you want them?

   I would plane 2 sides parallel, make a fixture for squaring up using a router, and finish by planing.

4. 
   JMartinsky | May 26, 2003 05:51pm | #5

   I would run the beams through the jointer to establish a "flat" side. Second, I would then run the "flat" side against the fence of the jointer to establish a true 90 degree angle (assuming that you jointer is set up properly). So, now you should have beams with two flat sides at perfect 90 degree angles to each other. Move to the planer. Measure your beams from one of the newly formed flat sides and find the maximum thickness along the beams. I would measure every 6" or so. This step is important so don't skip it!. Once you find the maximum thickness, set your planer for this thickness. Now, mark the ends of your beams with arrows or something so that the "flat" sides are marked. Send the beams through the planer with the "flat" sides down. BEFORE you change the depth of cut, turn the beams 90 degrees so that your second "flat" side is down. Even if you don't remove any materiel during these initial passes, that's OK. What you want to avoid is having a "high spot" in your beams. A "high spot" will hang the beam up in the planer, not very good for your beam, planer or ears! Now, begin by taking a 1/16" or so per pass, always sending the beams through with the "flat" sides away from the cutterhead. Each beam should go through the planer twice before changing the depth of cut, to maintain square stock. Continue until you get to your desired size. Good Luck!

   John

1. 
   RANGERP75R | May 26, 2003 07:45pm | #6

   John

      Well said. I chased square for about a year back in the 70's before someone laughed at my attempts and enlightened me. Now I just chase circles, they all end up square.  ha..ha..

   sarge..jt

1. 
   JMartinsky | May 27, 2003 01:50am | #7

   Thanks, Sarge.