This is a Question about how to handle spalted wood;
I have found a spalted maple billet that has a very attractive pattern on its end. I have slced 1/4 inch slabs off the end and book matched them by gluing them to an MDF back board. The result uis very pleasing. Now I want to stabilize the spalted wood so that it can be worked smooth and used for a box top. Is there anyone out there who can tell me the best way to do this? There will also be an inlay done after the soft wood is firm enough to work.
thanks for your assistance
Bob
Replies
Bob, just air dry it to a moisture content that is comfortably below 20%MC and keep it there. A seasoned moisture content of 18% or less is easily achieveable in most regions of the U.S. In fact, 12% is more like the norm.
The purpose here is that the molds (fungi) that cause spalting and decay go dormant when wood is kept below a moisture content of 20%. If the wood is already spongy and lacks structural integrity, drying it won't help. Depending upon the condition, you may have to resort to using one of the commercial wood restorers, which basically improve the wood's rigidity by impregnating the tissue with plastic.
I'd like to add some general info to what Jon said. I generally use solid wood edge glued or veneered panels. But, when I veneer a panel, the absolute maximum thickness of the veneer is 1/16th of an inch to keep the veneer acting like veneer, not like solid wood. If you leave it too thick, the panel will bow or the veneer will crack.
Also, If you glue the spalted maple to one side, glue some less valuable veneer with comparable shrinkage properties to the other side at the same time so the panel stays flat over a range of relative humidities - that is, between summer and winter.
Bob ,,,
I have a lot of spalted birch and London plane that I use for turning. I asked at our local turner's group how to deal with the punky portions of some of the more .... shall we say .... rotten areas.
Several people will saturate these areas with CA (super) glue. Some use laquer ... a few coats. I've tried using tung oil, several coats. The tung oil does seem to give the wood more "body" but takes quite a while to polymerize. I don't like using that much CA glue on turnings. If you go back to work on the piece before it's dry .... well, I've had trouble getting a comb through my hair afterwards if you get my drift.
I would heed the advice regarding the thickness of the slabs you've adhered to the backing, though. Rotten or not, the stuff is gonna move on you. MDF doesn't move much if at all.
One last note ...
Wear some sort of respitory protection when you work with this stuff. I'm probably the worst offender when it comes to this but whenever I chuck a piece of spalted wood in the lathe, the next thing I do is put on a dust mask! Don't want those spalty critters runnin' around in your lungs!
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
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