Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jan 29, 2004 09:47am | #1

   You don't say how long the individual pieces are, but you can straighten them by attaching them to a sled and running the whole shootin' match across your tablesaw using a high quality blade; the sled rides against the rip fence, keeping the work running past the blade at a constant distance. There are several ways to attach the work to the sled - just make sure it's securely attached and well-supported for the whole ride.

   You can do something comparable with a router - either hand-held or with a router table - but it's a lot slower and more tedious IMHO.

   Of course, if you're craving exercise and have a sturdy bench, you can plane it by hand.

   Good luck,
   Paul

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
1. 
   pghdan | Jan 29, 2004 06:12pm | #5

   I think this is probably how I'll do it.  It seems the fastest and easiest.  I do have a question about the sled though.  Would the board I'm straightening sit on top of the sled and therefore off of the table saw top.  Also how exactly would you attach the board to the sled.  I wouldn't think I would want to screw it considering this wood will eventually be used for stained trim.  Maybe someone knows of a good reference book or magazine article which might have info on this??

1. 
   forestgirl | Jan 29, 2004 08:40pm | #6

   I think any of the good tablesaw books will provide technique for jointing on the TS.  Seems to me there was a detailed description here at Knots awhile back.  Try doing an advanced search for "table" and "sled" -- or, whoever posted it will steer you to it.forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

2. 
   Norse | Jan 29, 2004 08:59pm | #7

   When I'm using just a straight edge (a 6 to 12" piece of plywood) I usually try to find the "face" side of the board and turn that down so a screw or pin nail makes no difference (the straight edge is on top). Make sure the straight edge sits level and at 90 degrees to the fence. On very crocked boards, it can tilt off the weak side.

   Or..... make a sled with a plywood bottom and plywood edge that you can screw those cam clamps on or screw your board on top of the sled bottom, this time with the face up. If the sled bottom is too narrow to support the board, tack (nail, double tape, hot glue, whatever.. ) a same thickness scrap to support the weight and keep it level (or 90 degrees to the blade)

   Before you start, take some chaulk and the straight edge and mark out your boards so you don't cut off too much.

   Norse

1. 
   AlanWS | Jan 29, 2004 11:13pm | #8

   You can either buy or copy this: http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=6415&objectgroup_id=555&catid=7

2. 
   forestgirl | Jan 29, 2004 10:01am | #2

   If you want to use a router to do this, you would use a flush-cut bit with a bearing.  Fasten a straight-edge to the board (MDF, Baltic Birch plywood) for the bearing to ride against.  Careful not to take too much off at once.  BTW, "linear feet" is a more relevant term here.

   forestgirl Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)  you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)

3. 
   fredsmart48 | Jan 29, 2004 11:46am | #3

   A trip to your friendly neighbor hood cabinet shop and a few $ and they may run the boards threw their 12" jointer. That is if you don't have router or a straight edge to make a sled for your table saw. 

4. 
   BG | Jan 29, 2004 02:13pm | #4

   Pghdan,

   Here's one more idea for you: I use a piece of extruded aluminum (sp?) about 1" square and 6' long that I got from the hdwre store.  Place the metal square along side the board, up against the fense and run the two thru the saw....remove metal square, flip board, slide fense over and run thru again....  
5. 
   GHR | Jan 30, 2004 12:06am | #9

   Take a straight 10' long board, clamp it to the fence, set the fence to the proper cut width, clamp the ends of that straight 10' long board to your infeed and outfeed tables.

   Slide your crooked board (crown away from that straight 10' long board) through the saw.

6. 
   piobuilder | Jan 30, 2004 12:06am | #10

   Make a sled, Take a peice of 1/4" or 1/8" masonsite 8' long 8"wide.  Attach a 1x4x8 peice of solid wood to the masonite even with one edge, so there is 4-1/2" left of the masonite showing. Get 2 or 3 of those lever clamps and attach them to the 1x4.  Put your board to be straighten on top of of the masonite against the 1x4 push the lever clamps down clamping the board in place and run it through your table saw.  I have never used one but it makes good sense to me.  Good luck! 

1. 
   Elcoholic | Jan 30, 2004 12:50am | #11

   For long heavy boards the sled method isn't always that satisfactory.  I made a sacrifical face for my TS fence.  The half behind the blade has Formica on it.  Set the fence so the Formica is flush with the outside of the blade (24T Heavy Duty Rip) burying the blade in the fence so only 1/32" of the blade is exposed.  Much like a router table jointing fence.  Make 2 big beefy feather boards to keep the board tight to the fence fore and aft of the blade.  Works just like a jointer turned sideways and you don't have to deal with the weight of long, heavy boards.  I got (6) rough 8' x 9" x 2" Koa boards very close to edge glue ready in a few passes.  Just took a few passes with a #7 to get them sweet with very little sweat.  I would caution you not to try this with a lightweight or thin kerf blade because any deflection will spoil your efforts.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

7. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 30, 2004 12:52am | #12

   You can use a router to get a perfect joint.

   Use screws to fasten a couple of cross boards underneath the two boards to be edge jointed.  Leave a gap between the two boards about 5/8" wide.  Have the good side up.

   Use a 3/4" bit, preferably with a 1/2" shank, with your router.  Clamp a straight edge on top of the boards such that the router bit will take off about 1/16" from both boards.  A down-spiral bit would be best but a straight bit can be used.

   Make a practice run first with the bit raised to make sure there are no cord entanglements etc to cause a bobble.  Then lower the bit and make the cut.  If you bobble, then reposition the boards and try it again.  The guide board should be wide enough to not flex when pressing the router against it.

   I use this technique for boards longer then 6'.  I have the Jet 6" jointer but have found that it doesn't joint long boards well.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

1. 
   pghdan | Jan 30, 2004 01:12am | #14

   This sounds like a great way to get two boards edge jointed well but I'm  not glueing boards up.  I only needs the edges straight enough for trim boards for a craftsman style wainscot.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Jan 30, 2004 04:04am | #15

   Ok, just do one board at a time instead of two.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)PlaneWood

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 30, 2004 04:11am | #16

   chalk box and circular saw..basically a "Snap"..

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

8. 
   Clay | Jan 30, 2004 12:55am | #13

   I prefer to use an extruded aluminum straight edge as a fence to guide my skilsaw.  I can straighten more accurately and MUCH faster that way than with a jointer.  If you will be cutting to narrow pieces make your first cut near the center of each plank and then rerip a straight edge on the outside edges ... that way you relieve most of the stresses with the first cut and the rippers will stay straighter for you.

9. 
   Routerman | Jan 30, 2004 06:24am | #17

   One router set up here.

10. 
    rodknee | Jan 30, 2004 08:22am | #18

    I too have no jointer, and I work with reclaimed lumber as a hobby.  So crooked boards are a problem for me as well.  The Grizley book has jointer clamps to use on your table saw.  Sears also sells them, both places average about $20.00. 

    But you just take a board that you know that has a straight edge, clamp one side to your straight edge, clamp the other side to your crooked board, slide it through the t.s.  Take it apart, do the other crooked side, then do the original side once more, if you need the whole width. Or just cut to size from the second side.  The reason for the third cut is that the board kinda sits on an angle so it cuts the first cut kinda on an angle.

    The instructions with it tell you more in depth of how to set up your straight board.  They do suggest your straight board be at least 15" or 20" longer than your crooked board.  They work alright for me, untill I can afford a jointer.

11. 
    CarpenterPJE | Jan 30, 2004 03:54pm | #19

    pghdan.

    Look up this one http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com  & check out their JointABILITY system.

    PJE