Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jul 31, 2006 07:04am | #1

   First off, I would think long and hard about staining cherry in any form.  Cherry will darken naturally in a relatively short time, and that natural darkness is much richer and more interesting than covering up the wood with gel stain. 

   I suppose the Rae formula will be easy to repair, like any oil/varnish mix, but I certainly wouldn't use it on cherry.  In this case, there is more oil than varnish so the finish will be relatively soft, so it would need repairing relatively often.  And, cherry doesn't need paste filler.  Unlike walnut or mahogany, its pores are not large enough to need filler to allow the finish to dry level.  I don't know what the pore filler adds to this finish, except basically turning pore filler, which dries pretty soft to begin with, into oily pore filler, I suppose in an attempt to use pore filler without a film finish on top. Now I haven't tried the Rae formula myself, but I am dubious enough that I don't have it high on my priority.  

1. 
   CWilson | Aug 01, 2006 02:15am | #4

   Like I said I'm pretty new at finishing stuff, so what do you recommend or use in this situation?   I want a finish that will either wear well, or be repaired easily?  Also do I just put the top coat on cherry?

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 01, 2006 04:28am | #5

   I would use a wiping varnish such as Waterlox Original/Sealer.  This can be wiped on and let build to as much or as little film as you want.  Thicker film--more protection.  While not as hard as some varnishes this one is pretty easy to repair if needed, unlike polyurethane varnishes.  It does offer good protection from the kinds of things you set on side tables.  Since I assume you don't walk on the furniture you don't need the abrasion protection of polyurethane varnish. I mention the Waterlox because it ends up with a mellow gloss--not super shiny, but not dull satin.  You could use a gloss varnish such as Behlen's Rockhard and rub it down to what ever sheen you want.  It can be a wipe on varnish just add about equal amounts of thinner.   

1. 
   CWilson | Aug 02, 2006 10:21pm | #7

   I usually put on wax at the end.  Is this ok to do with the water lox?  Also how many coats of the waterlox would you apply on this project?  Thanks again for your help.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Aug 02, 2006 10:40pm | #8

   Wax is fine--Waterlox is basically a wipe on varnish.  The solids content is low enough it will likely take at least 3-4 coats, but for serious protection 8-9 coats  would be roughly equivalent of three coats of "full strength" brush on varnish.

2. 
   arkriver | Jul 31, 2006 05:24pm | #2

   Staining cherry borders on a criminal offense!

1. 
   jackplane | Jul 31, 2006 06:05pm | #3

   Agreed.

   Cherry is the color other woods are stained to match. And gel stain is always a last resort. 

3. 
   MBerger | Aug 01, 2006 07:14pm | #6

   Just to clarify. Andy Rae's technique is a top coat that is designed to be applied over a more durable finish (which in turn would go over a stain). He uses it as an alternative to rubbing out/waxing a finish to get the same effect. To that end, the recipe should be used as described in the video but shouldn't be relied on as the primary protective finish.

   Matt Berger
   Fine Woodwroking