Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Jan 15, 2004 06:17pm | #1

                     Hi vern ,

          On a display piece such as yours ,I personally treat the insides the same as the rest. I am guessing you have a glass front door or no door , for viewing the goods.On kitchen cabinets and such I clear coat the interiors , unless a glass door is present.                     good luck            dusty

1. 
   vern | Jan 15, 2004 06:32pm | #2

   HI Dusty just came in the house and saw your answer I agree I don't know what else would look better--maybe off white-- white white would be too stark--I think-- besides I'll have stain in the gun -thanks Vern

2. 
   JohnWW | Jan 16, 2004 01:40am | #3

   Vern,

   The classic finish for the inside of cabinets is shellac, primarily because once it dries, which only takes a few hours, it is odorless. 

   Many finishes can continue to off gas for years into the interior of a cabinet, treating you to a solvent smell each time you open the doors.  In clothing cabinets the odor will cling to any fabrics stored in the piece.  It is also possible that the concentrated fumes might, over time, damage the photo equipment you plan to store in the cabinet so it would pay to be careful.

   John W.

1. 
   Tao | Jan 16, 2004 03:47am | #4

    

   Many finishes can continue to off gas for years into the interior of a cabinet, treating you to a solvent smell each time you open the doors. 

   Just curious: Can you tell me which ones, other than linseed oil?  I've never encountered what you describe.  I don't lacquer the insides of drawers because I found out the hard way that elastic and lacquer don't get along well at all, but other than that, I haven't had any problems.  Not that I finish many interiors, except for ones behind glass.

   Michael R

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 16, 2004 08:02am | #6

   >> Can you tell me which ones, other than linseed oil?

   Basically, any finish that you thin or clean up with mineral spirits or turpentine is likely to stink for a long time if applied to a closed space. Maybe years, maybe many years.

1. 
   Tao | Jan 16, 2004 05:38pm | #8

   >>Basically, any finish that you thin or clean up with mineral spirits or turpentine is likely to stink for a long time if applied to a closed space. Maybe years, maybe many years.

   That might explain why I've never encountered the problem.  I've never used either of those kinds of finishes inside any furniture.  I pretty much stick to lacquers and shellac.

   Turpentine I can understand.  Its aroma certainly does linger.

   In finishes that thin with mineral spirits, it must be the resins that stink, because mineral spirits evaporates completely without residue fairly quickly.  Aat least the brands I've tested do.

   Michael R

2. 
   vern | Jan 16, 2004 07:41am | #5

   hi John-- since I have already stained the inside- how about if I waited for it to dry good and put a coat of shellac or the same as I will put on the outside -Deft will that prevent any fumes ?

1. 
   JohnWW | Jan 19, 2004 11:19pm | #13

   Vern,

   Shellac is often used to seal wood that has picked up an odor,it should help to seal the stain if you have an odor problem.  Don't know about the Deft, it may have odor problems of its own in an enclosed space.

   John W.

3. 
   TomT226 | Jan 16, 2004 03:07pm | #7

   Any good waterbase lacquer won't have a odor after a few days of drying. I've done drawers and the inside of cases with both WB and nitro lacquer and never had a problem with smell or reaction with "elastic."

   Try some Oxford PSL. It's clear and can be tinted with Trans-tint dyes to resemble nitro lacquer.

1. 
   vern | Jan 18, 2004 05:35am | #9

   thank you Tom-- what is PSL Oxford-- it probably hasn't made it to FL. yet-- the inside of this cabinet is going to have my old faithful DEFT as a sealer over the stain[on the inside and outside]-- I really appreciated all the info from everyonme -bye Vern

1. 
   TomT226 | Jan 18, 2004 03:30pm | #10

   Go to http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and check out the Oxford line. I've used them for several years as these finishes havn't made it where I'm at either.

   If you read FHB, you'll recgonize Jeff Jewitt.....

1. 
   vern | Jan 19, 2004 04:11am | #11

   I checked out Jeff and clicked on the water base varnish [Oxford 7001 I think] and wow I 'm sorry but half way down the list of do's and don'ts I decided I will stick with Deft and "wool Lube" or Micromesh 1500 to 12000--my customers love the feeland I can shoot it when it is raining --what can I say--but I have decided to seal the stain thatr I put on the inside of this cabinet with shellac will I have problems if I do that -- like the shellac not curing ? Vern

1. 
   TomT226 | Jan 19, 2004 03:15pm | #12

   I've never had to seal a stain when shooting Deft. The solvent doesn't dissolve oil stains.

   The water base I was talking about was Oxford (Target) PSL, not WB varnish. I've sprayed it in high humidity conditions and it has never blushed. It'll dry just as fast as Deft, and has 100% burn-in, just like nitro, and it's a damn site harder.....

2. 
   vern | Jan 20, 2004 06:35am | #14

   thank you Tom-- I can appreciate the fact that the water-base is harder however if you give Deft 30 days to cure it will be as hard as most other finishes-at least it seems that way.-anyway I picked up a fresh can of white shellac and put a coat on the inside and it is going to be fine. If Mack Headley is copying this at least he will know how much research this cabinet has in it -- He'll be judging it in about a week and a half--wish me luck