I am using a Danish Oil stain on White Oak. I have let the stain dry for several days and also wiped down the surface with a soft rag to remove any residue. I am applying a polyurethane top coat and still getting some of the stain lifting onto the applicator rag. I am concerned that the stain will make the top coat finish look muddy. Is there a solution to this problem? I am thinking that a coat of shellac might do the trick. What are the thoughts and opinions?
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Replies
If you are referring to Danish Oil, like Watco, with a colorant in it, I don't know. I have not experienced that problem with tinted Watco. I must ask, how are you applying the "danish oil stain"? Danish oil must be applied liberally, let stand for 15-20 minutes, and then wiped completely off, and be allowed to dry. If you do this, you should not be having the problem.
If you are referring to an oil based stain, then yes, I have had that issue. Again, however, oil based stain also needs to be wiped off after a liberal application. If you do that, it will reduce the problem.
I have found the best solution is to use either a spray can of shellac or a spray can of poly to apply a thin seal coat over the stain. Then you can either wipe or brush subsequent coats without issues.
Thanks, yes it is Watco and I apply it as you describe and wipe it off. I also wipe in down again after a day to get off any residue. I think I am going to try using a Shellac to seal the stained surface and then apply the final top coat.
Make sure you use a dewaxed shellac. Zinsser Sealcoat is the only premixed kind available.
Danish oil penetrates and then cures in the wood. Once cured, it should be "locked in" and should not be soluble by the finish applied on top. I think that the Watco has not yet cured for some reason. Is it in a warm place? I think the temperature must be above 60 deg F for proper curing.
Danish oil is a mixture of boiled linseed oil, varnish, and sometimes colorant. Its not a stain - its an actual complete finish. I give it at least several days between coats.
Thanks to all. The finish is curing in my shop so when I am not there the temps are allowed to drop into the 40's. It may be the case that it is just taking longer to cure. I know that some use it as a final finish but it is not that durable so I will put a top coat over it.
While in some respects oil finishes aren't as durable as polyurethane they are infinitely more repairable and sooner or later a
ALL finishes need repaired. The only way to repair a poly finish is to strip it and start again keep that in mind.
3-4 coats of oil properly applied will provide 80% of the protection poly offers without the risk of chipping or making the wood look like it's encased in plastic. Just saying.
If it’s Watco danish oil/stain, the ingredients lists soybean oil as an ingredient alongside linseed oil in the same percentage. This oil is considered semi-hardening unlike linseed and tung oils and could very well lengthen the cure time.
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