Replies

1. 
   Paul_Snyder | Mar 10, 2003 01:19am | #1

   On a small surface, you could use a little stiff bristle brush (acid brush with the bristles cut short) and lacquer thinner to dissolve the spot and spread the stain evenly, blending it with the surrounding area. On a surface as large as a floor, this could be way too much work.

   If you try to use lacquer thinner to remove the spots, you will create lighter spots that will look worse than the dark spots. Dissolving the stain and leaving it in place, though less concentrated, is the only "repair" I've done that looked good.

   Paul

   F'burg, VA

1. 
   Sprucegum | Mar 10, 2003 03:27am | #4

   Thanks for the quick response, I'm going to try more stain with a light rub this is the first time I have used Behr stain and I think the oil content is the culprit here.

   I will let you all know tomorrow how it turns out.It's not what you chew, it's how you chew it

2. 
   floman47 | Mar 10, 2003 01:47am | #2

   I've used more stain or paint thinner for that. You don't wont to take off the stain around the bleeding. 

     What kind of stain did you use?

   Jeff in so cal

   75f--51%

1. 
   Sprucegum | Mar 10, 2003 03:19am | #3

   I used Behr Scandinavian Oil Wood Stain. So you're saying just dampen a rag with stain and go over it or should I thin the stain a bit so it doesn't get too dark?It's not what you chew, it's how you chew it

3. 
   Splintie | Mar 10, 2003 04:42am | #5

   Try using some plain danish oil over it. Before i began lacquering my work, i oiled a stack of lazy susans, then unfortunately had to leave them sit. They glued themselves into a pile i had to break apart, leaving dried gunk between them. When i went over their surfaces with danish oil again, it dissolved the last layer and smoothed it all out. If you don't want it darker, just use natural color oil. I'd do the whole floor, just to be sure of consistency. Let it dry, topcoat or wax as usual.  

1. 
   Sprucegum | Mar 10, 2003 08:06pm | #6

   I tried a bit of stain and a bit of thinner and a bit of them both together, all of which seemed to act on the floor quicker than on the little oil-bump I was trying to get rid of. So I got out Grandpa's old jackknife and carefully scraped off each little bump without harming the stain underneath. It appears the stain was pretty well set when the oil geysered out of the pores; maybe changing humidity put the squeeze on?

   That old knife can and has fixed everything!It's not what you chew, it's how you chew it

1. 
   Splintie | Mar 10, 2003 10:51pm | #7

   I thought you had a whole big area to do.

   it was likely a change in temp that made the air in the pore expand, pushing out the still-wet stain there. I had to endure a tongue-lashing from a woman who bought a couple walnut-stained knife blocks that had been stained days before. When she got them home to her very warm house from my very chilly shop, the  stain bled out of the end grain on the botton onto an antique lace tablecloth where it dried rather quickly.

   When i lacquer outdoors in summer, i have to be careful to not take my work from the coolness of the shop into the heat of outside, even though it's shaded. If not, i get bubbles in the finish from the expanding air. This can happen even after a couple coats are laid down. I let product sit outside on the racks for a while to come to temp before spraying, or spray at the tail end of the day when it gets cool.