Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 16, 2006 08:42am | #1

   I don't have experience with Olympic brand but their Danish oil says it should not be used as a top coat over their gel stain. It probably has the same effect on the oil stain. You are getting bleeding, which basically means the top coats are dissolving/activating the stain. You need to use a sealer over the stain. That's why the shellac worked, it's a good sealer. An alternative to shellac is to use sanding sealer. Olympic makes one that they recommend before using the oil.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 16, 2006 09:24pm | #2

   Olympic oil based stain are pigment stains.  Pigment stains stay on the surfase of the wood rathere than being absorbed into the wood.  To keep the pigment on the wood when the solvent evaporates, a small amount of resin (varnish) is added to the mixture.

   The resin will hold the pigment onto the surface as a long as there is little or no abrasion.  If a finish is brushed or sprayed on, the resin will hold the pigment in place.  However, when you use a rag or paper towel to apply a finish, the thinners in the finish and the abrasiveness of the cloth or paper will remove some or all of the pigment.  The pigment ends up in the finish itself.

   The best way to deal with it is to either rub very gentlely with the first coat or, apply the first coat with a brush.  Another option is to spray on a coat of spray shellac to seal the pigment to the wood.

   Howie.........

   
   

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   Edited 3/18/2006 4:07 pm ET by HowardAcheson

1. 
   rman | Mar 17, 2006 12:19am | #3

   Thanks so much for the great info.  I assumed something like that was happening, but don't have too much experience with these stains.  If you can offer some advice for anther question it would be appreciated.  How do I get small runs or drips in the shellac to even out?  I used very thin coats, but when you look at some areas close-up in just the right light I can see some small defects.  My wife thinks I'm crazy and should leave it alone, but I want perfection.  Only problem is I think the more I mess with it I think the more potential I have to mess it up.

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Mar 18, 2006 11:12pm | #4

   Your wife is probably right (aren't they always?).  That said, shellac dries very quickly and can be sand or scraped within 24 hours.  Just let it dry completely and then sand it smooth.  You may have to then apply another coat of shellac.

   The best "cut" for brushing shellac is 1 1/2# to 2#. 

   Brushing shellac will produce the least attractive finish.  The best is to use the French Polishing technique.  Padding the shellac on will also produce a better, smooth and more glass-like finish without the chance of runs or drips. Howie.........

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Mar 21, 2006 03:59pm | #5

   True, French polish gives a very thin, very very transparent very high gloss finish. But in this context it would be problematical, since it really can't be applied over a pigmented stain because the abrasion of the pumice used in the bodying up stage would affect the stain. But rubbing out a shellac top coat of say 4-6 thinly brushed coats of shellac can yield a very nice gloss that is a little thicker but still quite attractive. Rubbed with rottenstone as the final step it will be mellow. Continued with "swirl remover" the gloss would be quite high gloss.