Replies

1. 
   Floss | Apr 10, 2006 01:48am | #1

   The flex trim is a polyester resin. It is not too cheap either. Since it is not wood it has no grain and when stained it just looks kind of muddy unless you grain the piece. It would probably be just as easy to make the piece from solid wood and use a router and some scrapers to shape the profile. Plus the solid wood will look better in my opinion.

   Whay size radius are you using? There are several different techniques for making curves from solid wood but it really depends on how tight the radius is as to which method will suffice.

   J.P.

   http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com
1. 
   SenorDorado | Apr 10, 2006 07:56pm | #2

   Hey J.P.

   Thanks for the timely response. I am designing a 82" high cabinet whose carcass is made of 3/4" plywood. The client wants the vertical right edge rounded over for safety, as the right side of the cabinet will be exposed to traffic flow in and out of the living room. The upper portion of the cabinet has glass shelves that are fixed.

   My thoughts lead me to using either 1 1/8" quarter round, or 2 1/4" half round for the face frame. The next step is to figure out how a cornice made from a 4" coved crown moulding with a flat cap on top is going to fit to the face frame. This is where the flex trim idea came in.Basically I'm on the drawing board bouncing around ideas. Your thoughts and or suggestions.

    

   Senor Dorado

1. 
   Floss | Apr 11, 2006 02:50am | #3

   The radius that you are using is too tight for flex moulding. At leat I think. I used quite a bit of that stuff as a finish carpenter and eventhough it is quite flexible, a 1 1/8" radius with 4" crown would really max out the moulding even if you heated it up. I think tou would loose the crispness to the detail of the moulding if you tried it with the flex moulding.I would use either a solid piece of wood or a glued up lamination. The easiest way to make the profile would be to turn it and then cut the piece into 4 sections and use it for the corners.If you don't have a lathe then use a router to rough out the shape and carve, scrape, and sand the profile till it matches. I have attached a few photos of a washer for a drum table. I laid up the sections in three layers and cut the shape out with a router and finished with carving and scraping. I made a trammel for my router and used a straight bit to rough out the profile and finished with carving tools and scrapers.Let me know if you need any more information or tips I'll try and help.J.P.http://www.jpkfinefurniture.com

   
1. 
   SenorDorado | Apr 11, 2006 03:14pm | #4

   Thanks J.P. you've been very grateful with your advice and tips. I will certainly file your advice and use it when the occasion arises.

   During the brain storming segment yesterday I did call the client and found out that the rounded edge needn't be too profound as long as it is estheticaly pleasing and does the job. My task is to read between those lines and come up with a design that works.

   My thoughts lead me to a simple 3/4"round over of the 3/4 "x 2" face frame longitudinal right side edge. That being the case the radius gets even smaller for the cornice and base mouldings to blend.

   So.. as you have pointed out, the washer idea and subsequent milling may be the answer. Just make it and cut into segments that work.

   Still thinking out loud!

   Thanks and keep in touch!

   Senor Dorado