Replies

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 04, 2003 08:12pm | #1

   Hogan,

   You'll want to rub out the entire door to achieve a smooth surface with a nice uniform sheen. Make sure the surface film is completely cured before you start rubbing out the finish.

   Start by lightly, but thoroughly, sanding the door with 400-grit silicon carbide abrasive using mineral spirits as a lubricant. Examine the door under good light from several different angles as you sand. You don't want to sand through the finish, and you don't want to miss any spots. Be careful on hard edges and corners where it's easy to blow right through the finish.

   When you've achieved a uniform scratch pattern, you'll have to decide whether your want a higher sheen. If so, repeat the process with 600-grit. When you're satisfied, one easy way to conclude is to use Wool Lube or Howard's Feed n Wax to lubricate some 0000 steel wool (Liberon has the very best) and rub the surface to a nice glow. If you want the finish to glow like a classic car, you can take additional steps using progressively finer abrasives such as automotive polishing compound, Liberon brunishing cream, pummice powder and rottenstone.

   If you decide to wax, use a wax contaiing carnauba that'll dry hard - cream waxes like Howard's will show fingerprints and attract dust.

   Rubbing out requires good light, patience, and the right products, but isn't difficult. It's covered in several books like Dresnder's "The New Wood Finishing Book" and there's a great rub out procedure on Jeff Jewitt's website Homesteadfinishing.com.

   Good luck,
   Paul

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
1. 
   hogan | Dec 04, 2003 10:01pm | #2

   Paul,

   Thank you very much! Very informative.

   Hogan

2. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 05, 2003 08:18pm | #3

   Jazzdogg is right on point as long as his assumption that solvent base poly was used.  If waterborn poly was used the petroleum distillate in the lube or wax could be disastrous.  I used original formula Briwax on Enduropoly on my 8' dining table and the toulene in the wax left the poly soft and tacky to a warm coffe mug or plate.  The table is going on it's 3rd Christmas and it's just now hard enough to consider sanding it off.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 06, 2003 12:25am | #4

   John,

   Of course, you're absolutely correct. After experimenting with water-based, I intend to stick with good ol' oil-based varnish until our zealous regulators outlaw it. Briwax with toluene is a sore spot - just don't care to use it when there are superior waxes on the market without toluene (Liberon Black Bison, for one).Despite their faster drying time, relatively friendlier environmental aspects, and easier clean-up, I still prefer oil-based varnishes; IMHO, the end result simply looks better, not to mention the issue of compatability with other finishing products.

   Paul

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 06, 2003 04:42am | #5

   I've never been much of a varnish fan.  Dries too slow.  I used to use a lacquer with or without a shellac base coat for color.  Sprayed of course.  I really like Enduropoly and I didn't find the learning curve too steep at all.  I can spray 3 light coats on open pored QSWO rub it out with 4/0 and wax and get a nice natural look in one day.  I can spray it when it's humid, even below the dew point without blushing (I'm 2 miles from the beach).  I can spray it indoors without explosion, brain damage or lingering stink).  And I can build it up, let it cure a week and polish it to a blinding gloss.  All out of one can.  Try it, you might be surprised.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

1. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 06, 2003 05:27am | #6

   "I really like Enduropoly and I didn't find the learning curve too steep at all.  I can spray 3 light coats on open pored QSWO rub it out with 4/0 and wax and get a nice natural look in one day."

   John,

   Thanks for the tip. Sounds like it's as easy to spray as water-borne lacquer. Are you shooting with a compressor and conversion gun, or a turbine? Do you know who distributes it?

   All the best,PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

2. 
   Elcoholic | Dec 08, 2003 03:17am | #7

   Mostly W/ A Binks 95 conventional.  I have sprayed it on several occaisions with an Accuspray HVLP & turbine set-up which I like even more than my gun.  It's mfr'd by Compliant Spray Systems in San Clemente, CA  & you can order it on line from their website or find a local source.  They also make EnduroLac, but the poly is so forgiving and versitle I haven't even tried it.  They have additives and stains as well.  I've used their stains directly on the wood with good results.  It comes as a concentrate in a gallon can.  1 tsp of "Special Golden Oak" concentrate per quart gives a real nice amber hue or you can order it pre-tinted as "Overprint".  John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking

   Life is tough.  It's tougher if you're stupid - John Wayne

3. 
   jazzdogg | Dec 08, 2003 03:23am | #8

   Thanks, John.

   Compliant is close enough that I can drive up there, talk to them, and view their products this coming week. I've heard good things about their guns and turbines from some friends who are expert finishers - it ought to be a fun & interesting "field trip."

   PaulWhether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.