I recently stained my butcher block table. I sanded from 60 to 120 grit sand paper. Applied a wood conditioner and then a sanding sealer after. However, I have noticed there are very grey gritty areas within the wood and I’m not sure if it’s because I did something wrong. Please help!
Replies
I'm not sure I properly understand your sequence, but the proper process would be sanding, then conditioner, then stain, then finish. Assuming that the wood is maple, the sanding sealer should not have been required, but probably would not have caused any problems. It is hard to tell from the photo exactly what the issue is, but possibly inadequate sanding. You should sand with each grit until the scratches created by the previous grit are gone. And, always sand with the grain unless using an orbital sander. Also, it could be that you didn't follow the proper process for applying the stain following the conditioner; you usually need to apply the stain within a certain time frame.
I think there are a lot of 60 grit scratches on there. Those areas will soak up a lot of extra stain. You also have some figured wood mixed in, and that is going to absorb stain differently.
Wood conditioner is problematic. It has to be really dry to work. The instructions don't allow nearly enough drying time.
Is there a way to fix the 60 grit scratches? I progressed through each grit from 60,100,to 120. However, maybe I didn’t sand long enough? I haven’t applied a finish yet. I’ve just applied one coat of stain at this point.
Just more time. I'm not sure I'd go below 120 at this point. I don't know if you use card scrapers, but that would be the perfect thing right now. If not, start at 120. The deeper scratches will stay dark longer. Just give it time.
What did you do for sanding sealer?
No never used card scrapers. I used the conditioner after sanding then the sanding sealer. I waited about 5 to 15mins before applying the sanding sealer. Then waited an hour before staining
For wood conditioner to do its job, it really needs to dry. I'd wait at least a day before staining.
“[Deleted]”
This looks very much like yellow birch, a wood very common to my area. The wavy portions are expected from this wood, the gray portions to the right of the picture are likely weathered or have been planed against the grain, in both cases , sanding with the rough grit has not removed enough wood to get to a uniform surface that will accept stain evenly, you will have to go back to 60 grit with a belt sander and remove another layer until the surface is even in color and texture, following with 80 grit, jumping to 100 after 60 is too large a step.
I’ve sanded with 60 grit to get the stain off completely. I’m back to where I started with the intention of going to 80,100,120 grit before staining again. Just want to know if the marks in my picture can be removed with continued sanding or if this is just how the wood is. Thanks
Looks to me like the wood is stained / spalted a bit. I think it is unlikely that you'll get rid of it by sanding.
I think it's partly spalted too. You could try some oxalic acid to even it out. If it were mine, I would sand, not stain, no conditioner. Couple coats of zinsser sealcoat, then whatever topcoat you want.
1st question; how did you sand, by hand or with mechanical assistance? The reason I ask is hand-sanded scratches aren't as deep as those sanders will make. Either/or, I'd re-sand starting with 80 grit.
All deference to John, sanding scratches out with 120 will do the trick, it's just more time-consuming.
Imho; you, your clock and the finishes aren't the problems. In this situation, moisture is the culprit. And the conditioner & sealer helped lock it into the wood.
Last, I'd listen to the greater minds, take what I needed and discarded the rest.
Mikaol
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled