Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Dec 06, 2001 08:27pm | #1

   *
   Jim,

   Yes, I do have some views, click < Obsolete Link > here and < Obsolete Link > here. These are discussions related to what you are asking further down the page. These are just two of the many discussions on this subject that have taken place here and are still "on record." Hope this helps.

   Dano

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Dec 07, 2001 04:15pm | #2

   *While I have not used a great deal of cherry, I have been successful achieving the aged look; using hydrated lime mixed with water. I have used this to darken mahogany on many occasions. As you noted with the lye, different concentrations, of the lime, will produce varying tones, so samples will be necessary. I agree with Danford, that surface preparation is everything. The lime will do nothing to sapwood, but then neither will the lye. I have used lye to darken mahogany, but the stuff raised the grain, something awful, and was a little dangerous to use. Lime has none of these drawbacks. When I put the lime on, I use a cheap touch up gun to apply it, although I did it with a brush before I had a spray gun. The lime is very forgiving, it does not leave lap marks, given just a little care, and I’ve not had any problems maintaining color consistency, but I’ve never used it on a project as big as yours. You must work from the bottom up, because a drip or run onto raw wood, quite possibly will show up on the finished piece. Be sure to shake or stir constantly, as the lime settles out quickly, but this does not seem to affect the color, except when your trying to get very dark shades. The mixture will dry to a color that will make your heart sink but once the oil goes on, presto you have years of age. As with all chemical “stains” you are at the mercy of the woods tanin content, and this can vary from board to board, that’s why I don’t use these anymore. Here is something that is pure speculation on my part when using cherry, but I’ve had great success with it on mahogany. Try using the Trans Tint dyes mixed in Tried and True Danish oil. This goes on like an oil stain, but since it is a dye, all the beauty of the wood shows through, and the oil is fairly thick, so it acts like a gel stain i.e. easy to control. Mixed in the varnish oil, which is thicker yet, it may even work better on splotch prone woods, but here again I’m not sure.