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Replies
I have experienced similar problems when staining the end grain of some stair tread. I ended up cutting the Minwax stain with about 50% mineral spirits. Very pleased with the results. May also just prime your parts with mineral spirits and then stain while still wet.
Did you use a pre-stain conditioner?
I did not use pre stain conditioner. When I did this many decades ago I didnt know about it. But I think mineral spirits serves the same function. If the wood is wet from mineral spirits it will not absorb as much stain. If ya pick up a couple extra draw pulls I am sure you can develop the right method for your variety of wood.
Thank you, that's just what I did, need 10 and bought 12. I will experiment with your and others' suggestions and see what gives me the results I am looking for.
Thank you. I gave up sanding and resanding. Plan now is to buy new drawer pulls and take your advice. I can see how that will work.
If you sand the end grain 2-3 grits finer than you sand the long grain areas, it will come out more even and lighter in color.
gel stain is one way to avoid this, another is to apply a sealcoat of shellac and then stain.
Chuck one in a drill and sand it, you can get close to a polish. Not sure how coarse hickory is though... you might try wetsanding with a finishing product as the "wet" to grain fill and pre-treat. Use the old knobs to test products & techniques.
I've noticed "machine polish" effect - rather than a myth, it seems to me that the heat from the high-speed cutting tool seals the surface. When this has a variable grain direction (as with a rounded knob), it soaks up/resists the stain by varying degrees.