I am looking for information/advise on staining and finishing “tiger maple” to maximize its variated figure. I am leaning towards a “colonial-gunstock” type of look.
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I think you would be very pleased with "Tried and True" danish oil--It's a very high-quality polymerized linseed oil, with no heavy-metal driers or petroleum solvents.Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com) has it, so does Jeff Jewitt (http://www.homesteadfinishing.com)
(pictures are of soft and hard curly maple)
The answer to your question depends on several factors.
(1) Quality of the curl in the maple stock
(2) Your definition of "bringing out" the figure
(3) The amount of work you want to do.
For me, the answer is based on
(1) Using highly figured stock to begin with
(2) maximizing the perceived depth of the figure, will no concern
for maximizing the color variation
(3) Any amount of work was okay.
For me, the solution has always been:
(1) Wash with a coat of "Danish Oil" (I use Watco natural).
The purpose is to impart a very subtle/light amber color to
the wood. Follow instructions, let cure for 2 to 10 days,
depending on the type of top coat (shorter for varnish, longer
for lacquer & water borne).
(2) CAREFULLY smooth the oil finish (steel wool or grey 3M pad).
Make sure you don't cut thru the oil finish, and that you
clean up all the gunk left by the smoothing process.
(3) Spray (or brush) desired finish. I use varnish (Pratt & Lambert
alkyd "H17" straight or cut with some satin polyurethane for
additional durability). I never use straight polyu. varnish.
I sand between coats and typically
do 4-8 coats. When the surface is level and pores are filled,
wet sand (400 grit) or cabinet scraper, 0000 steel wool with the
grain (no 3m scuff pads), clean surface, polish with carnuba
paste wax (TreWax is pretty good) and cotton/linen rags.
If you want a clear, super gloss finish, I like Pratt and
Lambert's professional acrylic lacquers, but there are many
other good ones on the market.
Nice box! Do you have any more to show?
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