Replies

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 03, 2005 08:09pm | #1

   You can use grain filler, but what I like to do, much less hassle, is to wetsand the finish.  That fills the pores with sawdust/stain mixture so that the pores don't absorb so much of the stain.  You can even do your first wetsanding coat with a lighter or neutral stain.  Wetsand produces a very smooth, pleasant-to-the-touch finish also.

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   JohnG | Aug 03, 2005 08:37pm | #2

   What is your procedure for wet sanding?  What grit and what agent do you use for the "wet" part of the procedure?

   Thanks

   John

1. 
   forestgirl | Aug 03, 2005 11:06pm | #8

   Thanks to Howie for typing the Flexner stuff up!  I would start with 180 and either neutral finish or very light, sand it in, making a nice slurry and working it around, then wipe off well, across the grain first, let it sit a bit longer (but not tacky!) and then with the grain.  What you're doing here is filling the pores without making them really dark.  I'd go to the darker finish in the 2nd or 3rd application (practice first to determine).

   I have to confess, I didn't go up to such a high grit.  I think I started with 180 as Flexner does, but stopped at 320.  I definitely don't understand why you'd go from 180 to 600 in one swell foop -- I'd always use at least one grit in between those two, even with wetsanding.  I'd think the really high grits (600 or above) would be more applicable with woods such as maple or cherry.

   Also, while I slather the Watco on the surface, I also  keep a small bowl with some in it to dip the sandpaper in when needed.  You get to know what level of "drag" means you need to rewet.  Wipe off right away, and definitely keep the room at a normal or slightly warm temp.  You want any "bleeding" to take place now, not a week from now, LOL.  When he says "let the finish dry overnight" I would add, "checking periodically for bleeding and wiping off when/if it occurs."  After the first application dries, bleeding usually isn't much of a problem, another great reason for using this process.

   John, you'll develop a good technique, and it's a fun and rewarding approach to Danish oil finishes!  Take some scrap and play around with it, the more cathedral grain and pores, the more educational it'll be.  forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   JohnG | Aug 03, 2005 11:34pm | #9

   Thanks for your help. I will try that on some scrap.

2. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 03, 2005 10:07pm | #5

   Forest.. Geeee I do that sort of..Sand the wood with the stain I'm going to use.. I CUT it ALOT! Slurry.. Rub it in.. BUT! With Oak I usually use a LIGHT finish..
   Dark oak is sort of Artifical to me.....

1. 
   JohnG | Aug 03, 2005 10:36pm | #7

   I agree with you Will, I like lighter Oak too.  But our daughter chose the finish, and she is pleased with the color.  I don't mind the color as much as I do the extreme contrast in color of the various grains.  And I have seen oak with the same grain characteristics stained dark but did not see the contrast as much

   John

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Aug 03, 2005 09:35pm | #3

   Bob Flexner's new edition of "Understanding Finishing" suggests the following for oak.

   o Sand to 180 grit.
   o Wipe or brush on a wet coat of walnut colored oil/varnish blend (Watco), keep the wet on the surface for 5 minutes by applying more finish to spots that soak up the finish.
   o Wipe off the excess before it becomes tacky. Let the finish dry overnight in a warm room
   o Apply a second coat and sand lightly with 600 W&D paper while it is wet. Wipe off the excess. Let dry overnight.
   o If the finish doesn't have an even sheen, recoat as is the above step.

   The Watco is a complete finish so overcoating with a clear finish is not necessary unless you need the utmost in durability. If you overcoat, let the prior finish dry at least 5-7 days.

   Howie.........
3. 
   galenajoe | Aug 03, 2005 09:40pm | #4

   It looks like to me that the contrast is from the grain in the wood and not from the early and late growth of the wood. It looks like some of the drawer fronts are glued up fromn two or three pieces. If you matched the grain patterns in those pieces more closely there would not be such a difference in the look of the drawers. It's hard to match so many drawers but I think that's what the problem is in this case.

1. 
   JohnG | Aug 03, 2005 10:32pm | #6

   Joe,

   The only drawer fronts that are glued up are the lower two on the chest-on-chest.  The other drawer fronts are all one piece.  I think the upper ones looked glued up too.  We always try to match the grain the best we can on glue ups.

   Thanks

   John