I have a quantity of unsteamed Walnut and I need a light stain finish. I prefer this wood over the steamed Walnut which I find too “grey/dead” looking. Without sounding heretical, I want to neutralize a LITTLE of the reddish-purple color of unsteamed Walnut, while maintaining a close-to-natural,light chocolate color. Perhaps over time, UV will “knockout” the purple/reds? My final topcoat will be sprayed lacquer, probably a pre-cat nitro. Any suggestions? Also curious to know how many of you prefer the look of grain-filled Walnut over open grain.
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Purple is naturally going to turn to chocolate. But if you want to bring it down--grey it a little, work with it's complement on the color wheel. Opposite violet, reddish purple, is yellow. If it is excessively red, then tilt toward the green side of yellow. How to apply this color correction. You can use dye, and since you have spray facilities this can be an alcohol based dye. Or, you can combine dye with a top coat and apply toned coats, keeping each coat itself very pale, and layering them on to work up to the desired color correction. It won't take a lot of color. Remember with dye, it can really look wonky until a top coat is applied. This can be simulated to a degree by a wipe of mineral spirits or naphtha.
If you want to fill pores, then the tinting of the pore filler should take account your desired color. I usually shoot for just a little darker than the background shade.
So when to fill pores? It depends hughly on the style of furniture and the look you hope to achieve. Film finishes, which I associate with more formal furniture, look better with filled pores, unless it is a very, very light film. I am interested in period furniture, and everything from the 18th century is now fully (or 98%) filled, whether it started that way or not. So for reproductions--and walnut is particularly appropriate for Queen Anne and William & Mary, then I favor filling the pores. But for modern looks I go for natural, an in-the-wood finish, like an oil/varnish mix, which goes with open pores and casual furniture.
I've made a couple of
I've made a couple of grain-filled pieces to alter the basic walnut color slightly.
As Steve said, perhaps start with a dye to counter the bad color, seal and then follow with a glaze that will serve as a 'moderate grain filler'.
The combination will transition from the "dye to eliminate bad color" to "glaze to add the good color". Be sure to seal after the glaze.
Steve, I respect your extensive knowledge on these matters. Is the above procedure satisfactory advice?
That's a good description of
That's a good description of a pattern that will work. But if toning is easy--ie. good spray facilities, you can give a larger portion of the job to the toning.
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