greetings to one and all have just finished the “whale tail “hanging shelves as shown in pop. ww. would like to darken them just a tad but i know pine can be a bear when it comes to the “blotchies” any suggestions on prepping the project before the stain? i will be using a gel .many thanks for any assistance bob
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Replies
Bob - if you want to darken pine just "a tad," first put some of the finish you plan to use on a scrap and see what you think. An oil-base varnish, tung oil, polyurethane, etc. will bring out the natural color of pine adding just a little color. Also, the wood will darken over time and you may not want to use stain now.
If you want a little more color than the finish provides, I like Zar "Honey Maple" stain. It is a light color that enhances pine nicely. You can find a supplier of Zar at http://www.zar.com This link is to a photo of a small pine piece with Honey Maple stain - http://www.boomspeed.com/firstfinish/HoneyMapleStepStool.jpg
Other stains that work well on pine are the thick gel stains from Bartley or WoodKote. Another option would be to use amber/orange shellac for color and finish.
Before staining, sand the wood in progressively higher grits to 180 or 220. Remove the dust, apply the stain, wipe the excess and let dry until odor free. Then apply your finish.
Paul
F'burg, VA
thanks for the info Paul. your suggestion on the stain sounds like it would fill the bill on the color i hope to end up with. between you and Doc this project might even turn out ok. again thank you.
Minwax has a product thats called wood conditioner that I use before I stain/finish anything it does away with most of the blotches just be sure to sand after you put it on becouse it raises the grain I just sand,tack the peice off then apply the conditioner sand again tack off peice then finish as desired.
Good luck and Happy Holidays
J.Clark
good evening Doc thank you for the reply. the guys at lowes told me this was the greatest but they have never used it. i am more comfortable hearing from a woodworker who has experience with the product. i will give it a try and again thank you. bob clarke
WW
Many years ago I made some sewing kits out of birch plywood and pine. I made my own stain with the cheapest plug of dark chewing tobacco I could buy and a pint of ammonia. I crumbled the tobacco and let it set for 2 weeks. It made a honey maple color.
We have a local master cabinet maker he uses motor oil he drains out of his car for some staining. I've read of some people using brewed tea.
I guess what I'm trying to say you can use anything that colours the wood. You are going to put a finish on to protect it before you are through with it.
If you will mix Pure Tung oil 50/50 with mineral sprits and wipe a very very thin coat on before you stain this will help with the blotches. This seals the wood.
God Bless and Happy Holidays
les sometimes more
O.K. I held back here for a while but since the concern is the splotches and not the stain color as some have been eluding to I feel compelled to complete the puzzle. Splotches occur because pine is a sappy wood and that sap will often seep out when the wood is cut or sanded. Essentially you have exposed an area of a sap pocket and that sap is now exposed and worked into the surface of the wood. That sappy area is glazed and will not accept stains of any kind so what you need to do is to break that glaze. The Minwax products work but only if you know where the affected area is or if you treat the entire area is if it were affected. In otherwords, rub like heck and wipe it clean several times.
I find it much easier to sand to 220 grit then hit it with a green scotch brite pad. The sap areas will shine up right away and can then be removed with turpentine. You must let the wood dry thoroughly then you can stain and be fairly sure that you will not have the splotches. This is about an 80pct method but its the best I've found to date.
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