I have a deep crack that I have beveled/rounded the edges to to give a nice smooth appearance. I now want to fill the very depths of this crack with a small bit of wood glue to smooth out my “canyon” floor, it does not have to match my finish, in fact I’d like it to be bit darker to give the effect of a shadow or negative space. After filling the crack I then plan on finishing my progressive sanding on the entire piece up to 220 before staining and applying varnish. Because I want the structural bond of the wood glue I wood prefer to use it rather than a darker gap filler. What would happen if I mixed stain into the wood glue prior to application? Would this affect the bonding/curing of the wood glue at all (the wood glue says stainable)? The reason I’d prefer to do it this way is that I don’t have to try and apply a darker stain to a very deep and narrow space, and then I would also not loose color as I sanded into it. Anyone tried this?
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Replies
Let me get this straight
Nope nope. If you are relying on the regular wood glue to fill a gap (and if I understood you correctly) have structural properties this is not the way to go about it.
The regular wood glue has water in it so it will shrink as it dries/cures. You will need to keep adding layer after layer to fill the crack.
AND
wood glue has no real strength unless it is in a thin glue line between the parts to be glued.
SO
The way to go is epoxy. It does not shrink appreciably and especially if you use some fibers in it to bulk it up it will be structurally durable when filling across a gap.
Don't use "quick setting" junk from the hardware store, for several reasons, get the good stuff from a good wood working supply.
Yes you can dye it or stain it no problem. For best results apply the finish not too long after the epoxy cures; a day or two.
The secret to great results with epoxy is : mix it until you are sick to death of mixing . . . and then mix it some more.
To be clear on the pigmentation
I didn't mean you could just stain over the unpigmented filler. You wanted to add pigment to the filler. You can, but use mostly dry pigment or dry artist colors ( rather than like oil stain dripped into the epoxy). Here is a link
http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/Epoxy-Paste-Pigments-c46.htm
if you search epoxy here on Knots you will find other info I know for sure.
Try Apoxie Sculpt in black. I have used it in cracks and knots in reclaimed wood with great results. Black makes for a nice negative space look. Apoxie sculpt is used in Hollywood to create models and I've been told that the alien in Alien I was partly made of this stuff. Below are some early and later and finished pix. I can't find the really good pix my son took with a pro camera of the finished table in his dining room. This was the look he and his wife wanted and at first it was hard for me to leave in all the defects. The top was reclaimed fence boards from Loudoun County VA and the legs from an old barn in the Shen Valley.
Other solution to consider
I get the impression, from your original post, that the intended function of the glue is NOT structural but cosmetic. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
If it's true, then maybe you want to consider black boat caulk. It is designed to stick to the wood through rather sever wood movement as the boat works, as well as shrinking and swelling of the wood at haulout and launch. It comes in tubes just like home caulk, and you use the same gizmo to apply it.
You tape the top surface on the edges to prevent the caulk from touching it. Pump it in, force it deeply into the wood and smooth it off.
Thanks Roc, I followed you on dyeing the epoxy prior to application. I went ahead with a qualtiy two part epoxy fill, things turned out just right, the color was right on and the filled nicely, just fiinished smoothing it out and polishing it down yesterday. Hope to have my final preps for finishing done today.
In the words of the receptionist at Colorado Specialty Woods
OUTSTANDING ! ! !
Post photos when you can if at all possible.
Epoxy
roc -
have you had bad results with hardware store epoxy ?
I use them all - mostly West brand but never had a bad result with any 5 minute home depot store brand - I think it's Loctite -
SA
Not so much personally but
Westchester (SA),
I read about a few things to look out for.
Some of the quick set is cloudy/milky ( have seen that too).
The slower setting has more strength especially when used in a thick build up.
More choice in viscosity in the better stuff as well. So it doesn't run out or so it is easier to mix in the color. Two opposite ends of the viscosity spectrum but hey I am grasping now and should probably shut up.
Mostly the milkyness.
The Best Wood Glue is to fill a gap is the Gorilla GLue,please use it,you may got a better results.
Gorilla glue does not fill gaps with strength. Sure it foams up, looking like it fills gaps, but that foam is not strong. Epoxy is about the only true gap filler that is commonly available.
Gorilla glue does not fill gaps with strength. Sure it foams up, looking like it fills gaps, but that foam is not strong. Epoxy is about the only true gap filler that is commonly available.
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