Stains and Gel Stains are talked about a lot, as is the dislike of Minwax and some other companies.
So what stains do you peaple like? And where can you get them. And are these companies that I will be able to get the stain from in a couple years? (I tend to build peices years apart that need to go together)
I tend to work in the standard type of woods. Cherry, Walnut, Maple (not much oak) if that matters.
Replies
Doug,
To keep it simple, I use the 'transtint'stains. If you go on their web site I believe it shows how to cover the color wheel with three primary colors. I take about 1/2 tsp. of stain to make up a 8 oz. batch of each product...then I can easily mix various concentrations of each together. Easy to store, easy to repeat.
I like to use the dye stains such as the TransTint or Lockwood dyes. A lot of people tend to make the distinction between dyes and pigmented stains by calling only the pigmented stains stains, and calling dye stains dyes. It does avoid confusion.
But the finishing arsenal should include more than just one type. Pigmented stains have certain properties that dyes don't. Using both in one finishing schedule (eg. dye, seal, pigmented stain) often adds a depth and complexity to the finish that neither alone can accomplish.
Once particular problem comes when certain stains (and many of the Mixwax products fall in this category) combine dye and pigment, significantly reducing control over the process. Unfortunately many manufacturers use only pigment for some colors and dye and pigment for others. You can mix your own pigmented stains by adding pigment (artists colors, japan colors, universal tints, or even dry pigment) to the appropriate compatible binder. (Earth pigments such as the umbers, siennas or ochres tend to give very wood like tones.)
Steve,
Thanks for the information on the nomenclature. I've only done one piece where dyes and stains were used (arts&crafts finish)...of course I did not realize that is what I was doing...It came out quite nice.
One issues I have with mixing my own colors is that I am a bit color blind. I can tell when two colors match but I can not tell what the missing component is in a color. I can just tell that they don't match (strange I know)
Kind of like this time of the year. I can not see a red tree in a group of trees unless I look right at the tree, then I notice the color. (the color does not draw my eye to it)
So this may be an issue with mixing dyes.
Doug Meyer
I have used Transtint recently on curly maple with good results. I also have used
Bartleys gel stain on cherry with decent results
I've never had any problems with Minwax Gel Stains. They have been particularly usesful (as are all gels) with inconsistently grained wood (Cherry). That's what they're designed for after all.
General and Varathane both make good gel stains and neither is likely to be going anywhere. There are others.
Steve has a good point about contrlling the finish with combinations of stains and dyes. And you are headed in the right direction if you avoid Minwax products altogether.
Trans tint dies
Sherman Williams stains and shading lacquers
Old Masters gel stain.
The old masters gel stain is great. It is so thick that you can trowel it on. I mostly use it as a glaze on multi step finishing. It is the only stain that I have used which will dry when left thick on the surface. It also works great when buffing or rubbing off, giving a lot of control of the effect.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
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