Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 28, 2012 10:43am | #1

   The process is the same as making square raised panels. Instead of 90 degree joints, they will be angled to match the slope of your stair. Make up a template for the panels out of poster board. You can glue the boards up for the panels in a staggard fashion, then cut the trapazoidal shape after. The template will help insure that you don't get a board too short in the glue up.

2. 
   Chipper1011 | Nov 29, 2012 03:22pm | #2

   stairwell raised panels

   Thanks,

   Just had concerns that upon assembly, rails, styles, and panels may try to shift due to the angles of the parts used and bar clamps not pulling perpendicular to the rail and style glue joint.

   What do you think?

1. 
   hammer1 | Nov 30, 2012 12:28am | #3

   When I do wainscotting, I prepare all the various parts and install them in situ. Piece by piece. Normally, I am able to nail the key long rails to studs or other framing. I don't glue it all up in a single assembly first. Most of the time, I'm either turning corners or fitting up to something, so I like the ability to fit a single part and not have to handle a large panel assembly. I can also make slight modifications to the arrangement if needed. This eliminates the issues you asked about with clamps making things move. You might get in trouble on a stair since a small mistake on one end could be significant by the time you get to the other end

   Many times, the materials are prefinished but for the last coat before assembly and installation. This cuts a lot of finishing time and the issues of cutting in with paints or stains as well as future panel movement that may show lines on the edges of the raised panels. It's a lot easier to work on horses than on stairs. Of course, most interior trim work should be done so it is possible to make repairs or alterations sometime in the future, even though that may be a couple generations from now. The traditional methods have lasted centuries so I see no need to go against that wisdom.

   On this job, I used a cope and stick router bit set for the rails and stiles. If you have accurately and consistently cut joints, they pretty much fit together automatically. As always, use a stop on your saw so like pieces are all cut exactly the same, don't measure each one and cut to a mark, you'll often be off just a tiny bit and that messes things up. If the connecting joinery fits well a bit of glue will hold it fine without clamping.