I have an old (about 18-20 year) Craftsman radial arm saw that stalled out due to excessive load while crosscutting some 8/4 walnut. When this happens I usually let it cool and push the red reset button on the top of the motor, and resume cutting. This time, the red button won’t click and engage, and I can’t re-set it. I checked my houshold breakers and they are not flipped. I don’t know if it finally burned out for good, or if there is something else I should do. It has really received very light use over that period of time. I bought it used when it was about 5 years old. Any suggeestions welcome. Thanks.
Jay
Replies
"or if there is something else I should do"
I have a Craftsman of slightly older vintage. I burned out the motor years ago while still running the saw in 110V mode (I've since converted to 240V). I had it repaired by Sears Service, who told me the cause was the improper gauge/long run of extension cord I was using. I've had good luck with Sears Service and have been able to get most any replacement part that I've needed for my saw. I'd give them a try before you give up on yours.
Jay,
Given the symptoms you are describing it is very unlikely you damaged the motor.
The thermal overload switches on the older Sears saws are prone to getting packed with fine dust that prevents them from resetting after they are triggered. I haven't played with one for years so I can't recall if they can be opened up to clean them out. If they are sealed you can at least try to blow out the switch with compressed air.
You can test if the problem is with the switch by bypassing it by hooking the the two wires that are connected to it together. These switches don't give especially good protection to the motor since the motor has to get quite hot before the switch is triggered. If you are regularly popping the switch you will eventually damage the motor.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
"You can test if the problem is with the switch"Good point. In the almost 25 years I've been using mine, I've never popped the switch.
John,
Thanks. I'n not sure I follow exactly which wires you are referring to. The overload (reset) button (switch) is on the top of the motor, but I would have to somehow open up the motor housing to get access to any wires connected to the underside of this switch. Is that what you are suggesting? Thanks.
Jay
Jay,
Yes, you would have to get inside of the motor to pull the wires off of the switch and then connect them together. This probably isn't an easy job and could be very difficult depending on the motor's design.
I would first try blowing out the switch from the outside while tapping on the red button, the amount of dust in the switch wouldn't cover an aspirin tablet, so you don't have to dislodge very much. If you don't have an air compressor, the aerosol can dust remover sprays sold for electronic and photo equipment would work fine.
If you wire around the switch, and find that the motor runs when it is reassembled, you could leave the switch out, but that would leave the motor with no protection against overheating, so you should replace the switch if you can't get it to work. Be sure to insulate the connection between the two wires with tape or a wire nut before you put the motor back together.
John White
Thnaks. Makes sense.
Jay
Which Wires
I know this post was a long time ago. Hopefully John White is still at FWW Magazine. I have the same thermal switch problem on Craftsman radial arm saw. Which two wires are being referred to that should be connected together.
Thank you,
Tom
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