Replies

1. 
   EdHarrison | Dec 17, 2006 05:54pm | #1

   Great tool and only takes a couple minutes to tune up and use. I clamp the blade in a vise, use a mill file to shape the 45 degree bevel, diamond stone to polish the bevel and flat face, use a burnisher to turn over the hook, affix the blade in the tool, use the adjustment screw to put a little "belly" in it and go to town making feathery shavings. Whole procedure from start to finish takes less than 120 seconds. If a ham-handed galoot like me can learn to do it, anybody can. Good luck.

2. 
   JeffHeath | Dec 17, 2006 07:54pm | #2

   I agree completely with Ed.  The #80 is a fatastic tool, and one of the easiest out there to tune.  They're great for flushing up cabinets to faces, etc..... and a great deal more.

   Jeff

3. 
   mwenz | Dec 17, 2006 10:51pm | #3

   Yep, another vote for the #80 and its spin-offs like the LV one. I have both a Stanley and the LV. I probably use the LV one more on larger surfaces as the sole is a bit larger.

   But regardless, they are incredibly simple tools which can do incredibly great work.

   Take care, Mike

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 17, 2006 11:55pm | #4

   My 80 was another flea market find,  Worth every bit of $15.   Easy to use and sure saves on sore thumbs,  use it on prolonged scraping.  Generally use the cards for quick jobs.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

2. 
   pins | Dec 18, 2006 02:11am | #5

   I also have an old '80' and the LV knockoff. I like them both and agree that the extra little bit of sole on the LV is helpful in many cases.John

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 18, 2006 04:54am | #6

   Ok,

   I will give it a try!

    

   Thanks

   Frank

1. 
   Sean2112 | Dec 18, 2006 05:01am | #7

   Interjecting another thumbs up here.  Fabulous tool (properly set-up of course)

   Regards, Sean

2. 
   calvinhobbs | Dec 18, 2006 04:17pm | #9

   One more to pile on.

   I don't think there is any project I have done in the last 5 years that I haven't used my #80.  I would be lost without it.

   Cal

4. 
   philip | Dec 18, 2006 10:07am | #8

   That #80 is a very good thing, and not hard to get it working , you don't even have to have the edge at 45 degrees, but try this out first as it may suit you. You can have one end of the blade prepared at 45 degrees and the other done like a card scraper, in effect giving you 3 edges to use before a re-sharpen.
   Then there is the #81 which looks very nice but is limited in use compared to the #80-this is because it has no facility to bow the blade, but it does have a bigger base, it is good for fine shavings.
   But there is still nowt to beat the ordinary hand held card scraper, which is far more versatile.
   What is it that you want to tune up?

   Philip Marcou
5. 
   derekcohen | Dec 18, 2006 04:42pm | #10

   I have two Stanley #80s and a Stanley #112 (with LN blade). When I need a scraper I use a card scraper. The #80 is primarily used for glue lines.

   While the #80 is potentially a good tool, over-zealous use of it is easy and this can damage your wood surface. The depth control is basically the central screw that adds/reduces camber. Camber in the blade cuts a cambered pattern in the wood surface. Even though this may be very shallow and invisible to the eye, it can be felt and, especially, seen at the right angle against the light.

   I have the same concerns about card scrapers when strongly cambered by thumbs in a forward stroke. Better is a pull stroke since this keeps the blade fairly straight.

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

1. 
   DavidCockey | Dec 19, 2006 03:21am | #12

   "The depth control is basically the central screw that adds/reduces camber. Camber in the blade cuts a cambered pattern in the wood surface."

   Depth control on the #80 is where you set the blade, the same as a metal spokeshave without depth adjusters. Try resting it on a sheet or two of paper so the blade can drop beside the paper when setting the blade depth.

   The screw adjusts camber and the depth in the center after the basic blade depth is set.

2. 
   hammer1 | Dec 19, 2006 08:08am | #13

   I have to agree with you, Derek. Your scraper blade is held at a specific angle with the #80. If you don't get the curl just right, it doesn't cut well. With a card scraper, you can adjust the tilt and feel the cut. You can also put as much or as little bend in, as you proceed. The #80 absolutely leaves scorped out areas, particularly in species with varying hardness between summer and winter wood. I don't find the handle configuration easy to use, either. The #80 will also let go and skip across the surface making wonderful track marks. This is it's worst issue. You can't finesse it on a skew when working difficult grain, touch just a small area or get into many places. I don't even use mine for glue clean up, it's just a display item.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   Patto | Dec 19, 2006 08:21am | #14

   Hammer,

   I made a coffee table last year from a slab of Blakely's Gum, which Derek will be familiar with. I dont have a high pitched plane, and I do understand that the HNT Gordon planes are excellent for this, but I found my Veritas #80 copy saved my bacon on this top. The timber is finely grained with a lot of 'wiggle' and very hard. I nearly made a mess with a belt sander before switching to the scraper. I have also used it successfully on some river red gum, although my standard pitch stanleys work on this timber.

   It doesnt get used often, but...

   Dave

6. 
   Napie | Dec 19, 2006 12:52am | #11

   I have three and use them all the time.