Ok, so I found a used #4 Stanley/Bailey hand plane in pretty good shape. Got it home, cleaned it up and tuned it as best I could. Bought a new hock chipbreaker and blade. Now I notice after putting it all together that there is very little space in front of the blade even with the frog as far back as the throat will allow. Do I need to widen the throat a bit. I’m new to handplanes and would appreciate any help from the veterans out there. Thanks
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Replies
imrich,
Congrats on your new acquisition.
The first question is how is it performing now?...and how would you like to change it's performance? In general, a tight mouth on a #4 is preferred so that fine wispy shavings come out for a finished surface. However, you may want more aggressive cuts...
You may want to take a file and open up the throat a little bit if you intend on taking aggressive cuts with the plane. Generally speaking, the No 4 is a plane used to take very fine shavings with so your current set up is perfect. If you want to take aggressive cuts, you may want to buy a Stanley No 5 plane and use the Stanley blade that comes with it. If you think of planes like sandpaper, a No 4 is like 220 grit, a No 5 is like 150 grit and a No 40 scrub plane is like 80 grit.
Hey Mike,
If you think of planes like sandpaper, a No 4 is like 220 grit, a No 5 is like 150 grit and a No 40 scrub plane is like 80 grit.
I like the way you put that.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Thanks guys. I guess I was asking the #4 to do more than it was designed for. Rookie mistake. It was taking fine, almost sawdust like shavings so I guess I did a pretty good job of tuning it up. I also liked the sandpaper analogy. It helped explain things. I guess I'm off and looking for a #5 or scrub plane. Thanks again
A Millers Falls #15 makes a sweet #5.
I must admit a prejudice for Millers Falls planes as I think they are better than the equivalent Stanleys. But opinions are, well you know the rest. :-)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
I will second your opinion, and add that Sargeant also made planes that were typically equal to or better than the equivalent Stanley planes. Most of the Craftsman planes were actually made by Sargeant.
John W.
imrich, go look for a good No 5 type plane. Craftsman's are dirt cheap ($10.00) on eBay. Hold off on the scrub plane until you feel you need one. I rarely use mine and often just adjust the blade on my No 5 for a deeper cut.
If you are getting sawdust, sharpen...should be curleys...congrats and pay no attn to the Stanley naysayers. You have a great woodworking tool there my friend. Enjoy the sound....
Thanks Bob! I try to explain things as simply as I can so I don't confuse people. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't.
mike
I got a #7 joiner plane on eBay and purchased a hock blade and chipbreaker. I could not get them together due to thickness, the same problem you had with your #4. I used the Hock cutting iron and the old chipbreaker together; and then took the Hock chipbreaker and the old iron together as a backup. It was a little disappointing not to be able to use both the Hock parts, but half a loaf is much better than none.
I've got a #5 Stanley that I can't get flat. I finally resorted to lapping it on a 60 grit belt sander belt clamped to a piece of float glass and it's still not flat. Any ideas on how to take more metal faster? We are at least a shavings thickness from being flat. With the time I have spent working out on this plane I could have bought a Lie-Nielsen cheaper! A $25.00 E-Bay plane and $300.00 worth of my time just don't add up!
Rob
What era 5 is it? I have owned several from the period of about 1910 to 1940. I often can't resist chesp ones, and so buy them, clean 'em up and give them away to fellow woodworker friends and relatives. Perhaps I've been lucky, but I've not come across any that had problems with sole flatness that kept them from performing Jack functions admirably. That said, Stanley 5s from the 50's through the 70's are garbage in my experience. Horrible fit and finish to the point of not being worth fettling.
Much to my chagrin it was a Stanley "HandyMan" series. New? in box. I am a newbie at buying e-bay tools. I think you are right.
If you need any tips on what to look for, there are lots of old hands around here.
And if you want, feel free to blip be offline (by e-mail) and I'll give you my opinion of any auctions you are interested in.
Don't lose faith - eBay has given me some GREAT tools at very reasonable prices.
Very simple rule of thumb when searching for old Stanley Planes; look for planes with rosewood handles and one to three pat'd dates behind the frog. They're readily available.
I hear ya about all the work. I also had an old #5 with a not flat sole and the sides were, well let's say they weren't exactly square to the sole........
Took it to a machinist and problem solved - $25. Of course these folks have refurbed many old planes so they knew what they were doing.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I think Samson has asked the money question: what era was the #5 from? Mine is an 1888 version ($35), and I had it flat in about 2 hours (including the time spent refining the throat, sharpening the iron and chip breaker). The Stanleys born after WWII are not worth the effort. Many were never all that flat to begin with, and the time required to achieve even middling results is excessive.I generally do not buy a tool that I can't handle first, although if you have a reputable seller on eBay, it might be OK.Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
Excellent responsed men! Thanks for the advice and offers of help. Next time I'm in the market I will certainly consult here first!
Rob
I like Ron Hock a lot and have many of his products. His blades are excellent. So take this as intended - just a statement of my experience - his blades are thick (a plus), but this can often be problematic in fitting them to old Stanley planes. It can be a plus in that it can narrow an overwide mouth, or in other cases it may well require you to file the fouth larger to accomodate the blade. Such filing is not all that difficult, and the results are worth it. That said, if you don't want to mess with that, consider LN Stanley replacement blades which LN purposefully makes thicker than the originals, but still thin enough to go in an old Stanley without alteration.
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