I have my grandfather’s Stanley brace and I cannot keep a bit tight in the chuck for any length of time. Do the chucks wear out after 100 years or is it me?
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Replies
Auger bit with a square tapered end? They don't grab round bits worth a damn! Sometimes the jaws go bad. There's a spring mechanism in there that holds the jaw pieces in place that can break or get screwed up somehow. Sometimes the chuck gets arthritic and need a good lube.
What model number? It should be marked.
Bit braces were made with a variety of styles of jaws. The least expensive only grabbed the square taper shank bits like auger bits. The most expensive also grabbed well a round shank drill bit. Cheap ones only had a pin on one jaw that engaged a hole in the other jaw to keep them lined up. The jaws were kept at the slight angle of the taper both by the pin and the shape of the chuck interior around them. The expensive braces had a fairly subtle spring unit connecting the two jaws, and the chuck interior allowed the shape between the jaws to change orientation from tapered interior to straight interior. Hence the ability to adapt to round shank drill bits.
If your brace won't hold taper shank auger bits, take the chuck apart and examine it. There might be some crud in it, or stripped threads (highly unlikely.) If it will hold taper shank bits but not straight shank bits, figure that was how it was made.
Like so many other hand tools made in the pre-power tool era, there were lots of different grades of braces available to tool buyers. Different woods for the handle and knob, ball bearings (or plain steel on steel) between the knob and body of the tool, different chucks, open or concealed ratchet mechanisms (or none), and different "sweeps", meaning the distance from the chuck axis to the handle x2. Sweeps went from 6" to 16". In 1920, Stanley made a total of 68 different models of bit brace; prices ranged from $1.05 to $6.80. The top of the line was a nickel-plated 14" sweep brace with universal jaws, ball bearing chuck, metal clad ball bearing head, concealed ratchet, and cocobolo head and handle.
I checked the maker and is it JA Chapman, Sheffield. The chuck and it’s internals look identical except to the Stanley ones. I have spring in the chuck but it pops out Immediately from the jaws when I reassemble the chuck. It holds a square end bit fine but I can’t keep the collar tight
The jaws are quite worn and are definitely not a diamond shape! Any idea of where to fine spares?
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