Replies

1. 
   rimo | Nov 17, 2009 11:46pm | #1

   Do a Google search on "Patrick's Blood and Gore". This should take to you to all you need to know about Stanley planes.

2. 
   Samson | Nov 18, 2009 12:22am | #2

   http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/type_study.php

   They're all pretty good up until about type 16 (they begin to deteriorate quality wise following WW2).  Lots of folks favor the 1900 to 1940 or so era planes because they capture most of the improvements that are useful, expecially the "Sweetheart" era - the ones with the SW in an heart mark on the blades from the Depression era more or less).

3. 
   Mackwood | Nov 19, 2009 01:06am | #3

   Don,

   Patrick's Blood and Gore, as suggested by another, is the repository of all knowledge regarding Stanley planes.  It can be a bit overwhelming at first glance.

   All the Stanley planes have a number; #4 (smoother), #5 (jack plane), etc. (ad nauseum).  Each of these was or is being produced for a period of time during which changes were made to each design.  Type numbers refer to these design changes.  Type 1 is obviously the first in the series and each advancement in Type number corresponds to change in design for a particular model of plane.

   For user tools, IMHO, it is best to get the oldest Type that will fill your needs.  Research the various design changes, decide which features you need, which ones you want and purchase accordingly.

   Regards,

   Mack

   "Close enough for government work=measured with a micrometer, marked with chalk and cut with an axe"

   
   

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   Edited 11/18/2009 5:09 pm ET by Mackwood

4. 
   pbrin | Nov 19, 2009 03:29am | #4

   If you are looking for good user planes at a very reasonable price I would stay in the type 11 (1910-1918) period and the Sweetheart perod, type 12 through 15 (1919-1932).    There are plenty of them at great prices and they incorporate all the main improvements technically.   After WWII (type 17) they pretty much go downhill.   Purchase planes that are complete and with good woods.   Then clean them up and sharpen the blades and they'll be back in action as workers.

   All the best,  Paul

   
   

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   Edited 11/18/2009 7:44 pm ET by pbrin

1. 
   noviceneil | Nov 19, 2009 06:23pm | #5

   Or better yet, replace the blade with a Lie Nielsen or Hock blade and you will imrove the plane's ability considerably.

   Neil

1. 
   Samson | Nov 19, 2009 06:48pm | #6

   Most of the time, but not always.  I have a 607 (old one - curved sides) that I think cuts better with the original blade than with the LN replacement blade I bought for it.  Funny that.  Not that the LN blade is bad, it's just that some vintages or maybe steel batches or whatever, that Stanley used were pretty darn good. 

1. 
   noviceneil | Nov 19, 2009 07:32pm | #7

   Yeah, I knew the moment I posted it someone with alot more experience than me would point out the error of my assertion..I only have three old Stanleys, a Bedrock 5 1/2, a Sweetheart 3 and a #4...they all have new blades because I assumed from talking to others that the new blades would be better...haven't resharpened the old ones...maybe in my spare time (2-3 yrs from now) I'll give them a go.

   Neil

1. 
   pbrin | Nov 19, 2009 08:48pm | #8

   During the last few years I have combed the backstreets and ebay for Bedrocks that are way beyond collector status so I would feel OK "enhancing" them.   I now have a full set including #602.   These were all badly neglected rust monkeys!  They were all derusted by electrolysis, thoroughly baked dry (iron is porous) and then recoated with genuine japan, not black paint.   They were flattened and the sides waxed to keep out rust.    All of them have complete Hock cutting sets (cutter + chip breaker) and hand made cocobolo woods.   It's taken a while but I'm there and they are a joy to use.   During each project I actually look forward to the moment I can haul one of these off the shelf and work with it.   Some of the cutters are A2 tool steel and some cryo treated.   They're all great.   Ron Hock even "trimmed" one of them for me to fit the odd sized #605 1/2.    I'm not sure the overall cost was WAY less than just buying L-N versions but I had a lot of fun doing it.

   There is no doubt that the steel Stanley used over the years did change.   I'm sure it's true that some sharpen better than others.

   Let the shavings fly!

   Paul