Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | Apr 02, 2004 12:32am | #1

   How often do you renew the dessicant? Do you have the kind that changes color when it gets saturated?

   You might want to try paste wax instead of TopCote.

   If you're not ready to build a toolbox with a built in heater, the next thing I would try is storing the square in a food storage container (Tupperware or Rubbermaid, etc.) to limit the amount of air the dessicant has to dry.

2. 
   jazzdogg | Apr 02, 2004 02:41am | #2

   Dan,

   Lie-Nielsen wraps their tools in rust-preventative paper called "Ferro-Pak" that's pretty effective. I don't know of a source, but it seems like it couldn't hurt to try wrapping your combination square in a piece.

   I habitually swab my rust-prone cutting tools with camelia oil after sharpening. Might be worth trying a little on your square.

   Good luck,

   -Jazzdogg-

   Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.

1. 
   BG | Apr 02, 2004 02:46am | #3

   jazzdog,

   When I want to keep bread fresh for a week or two...I use the bags from inside ceral boxes....they don't let any air or moisture thru....

1. 
   IanC | Apr 03, 2004 02:41am | #12

   BG,  Interesting tip!   As a committed recycler, I'll be looking for ways to extend the life of cereal box liners. 

   Edited 4/2/2004 7:43 pm ET by IANCUMMINS

2. 
   Mackwood | Apr 03, 2004 02:03am | #11

   jazzdogg,

   I recently replaced the engine in one our painting vans and the new long block came wrapped in a huge piece of "ferro-wrap".  I folded it carefully and intend to cut it up into tool sized pieces as needed.  It was one of the few bright points in the whole greasy evolution!! LL

   Regards,

   Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

3. 
   TEX | Apr 02, 2004 03:34am | #4

   I have a 12" Starrett tri-square and I keep in hanging on pegboard on the shop wall. I have had it for over 6-months and there has not been any rust. The relative humidity of my shop varies from 40% to 70%. You might try leaving it in the open.

4. 
   woodman54 | Apr 02, 2004 04:59pm | #5

   I had a ton of problems with my tools and supplies rusting last year, my shop is a garage and three adjoining sheds 20 by 8 feet. At 1500 feet of elevation in MA the cool nights and warm humid mornings in April and May are the worst time for me. I was going to buy lots of desiccants but the salesman at an industrial website suggested a roll of rust preventive plastic. It is supposed to work with an ion transfer for two years. Just putting sheets of this stuff in a box or tool box will prevent rust, I bought a roll 4 feet by 500 feet for 125.00  It sounds like voodoo but after wire brushing, sanding and oiling for days I will try this out. 

5. 
   JohnWW | Apr 02, 2004 06:32pm | #6

   Dan,

   Since the other tools stored in the same cabinet aren't rusting the problem lies either in the metal of the square or something that has contaminated it.

   Occasionally I have run into steel that rusts when no other tool in the shop has a problem, it seems to be something in the metal itself and the only way to control it is to use a commercial rust preventive compound.  TopCote is primarily a dry lubricant, it isn't an especially effective rust preventive.  Ordinary furniture wax works well to prevent rust in most conditions and I would suggest you try that first before trying to find an industrial weight rust preventive.  I have noticed over the years that Starrett brand tools seem to be more rust prone than other brands. 

   There is a chance that there is a chemical residue on the square that is the cause of the problem.  It could be an acid or a salt and the way to remove it would be to scrub down the square in hot water with dish detergent.  As soon as you remove it from the water, dry it well and sit it in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees or use a hair dryer to remove all traces of moisture from the metal, then wax it immediately. 

   If the metal is pitted, you could, in addition, try brushing on one of the rust converter compounds after cleaning the square.  Follow the directions on the package and then wax the square after wiping off and drying the converter.  Rustoleum makes a rust converter that you should be able to find in a hardware store.  Any ordinary rust retained in pitted metal is a starting point for additional rust, using a rust converter stops that process.

   John W. 

1. 
   dmt | Apr 02, 2004 08:18pm | #7

   Thanks for the advice. I thought TopCote was a rust preventive, since I use it on my stationary tools and have no rust. I'll try the cleaning and waxing as recommended.Dan T.

   The one serious conviction that a man should have is that nothing is to be taken too seriously.

   Nicholas Butler (1862 - 1947)

6. 
   Napie | Apr 02, 2004 09:01pm | #8

   Is it the blade or the head?  The blade on mine is satin chrome platted and has never rusted.  BTW that Starrett combo square is the most used tool in my shop, every project begins and ends with it from checking machine set ups to edge square on boards for glue up. 15 plus years, still dead on and it's like an old friend.

1. 
   dmt | Apr 03, 2004 12:15am | #9

   The head is the major culprit. My blade is suppose to be stainless steel. The blade has developed 45 degree black marks, mostly on the 32nd/64th side, that will not come off, even with a light application of a fine abrasive cleaning block, I also tried that on the head, but the brown stain remains. My Starrett 6" does not have the problem.Dan T.

   The one serious conviction that a man should have is that nothing is to be taken too seriously.

   Nicholas Butler (1862 - 1947)

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 03, 2004 12:52am | #10

   Dan,

   As near as I can tell, Starrett doesn't make a stainless steel blade for their combination squares, they make regular hardened steel blades and satin chrome finished blades.

   If your head has a wrinkled finish paint job, it is the cast iron model, stains on cast iron penetrate the porous metal and are permanent.  If the head has a smooth black enamel finish, it is the steel version and stains might be removable with a little buffing. 

   Unless the tool is actively rusting I wouldn't worry about the discolorations, trying to clean off the stains can do more harm than good.  All of my machinist's tools have developed a dark patina from time and handling, you are better off letting the patina develop than scrubbing away metal by polishing.

   John W.

1. 
   dmt | Apr 04, 2004 12:47am | #13

   My Starrett has the cast iron head, so I guess I'll live with it. I am sure you are correct that the blade is not stainless, but I three other Starrett rules that are satin. The blade on this one is a brighter finish.

   Thanks for the info.Dan T.

   The one serious conviction that a man should have is that nothing is to be taken too seriously.

   Nicholas Butler (1862 - 1947)