Replies

1. 
   papanick | Feb 26, 2006 10:03pm | #1

   Jointer doesn't always have to be first. But it does always have to be before the planer.

   Bandsaw to rough size (or use a tablesaw or skilsaw if necessary) then joint then plane if the boards are too big.

   If you need them bigger than the 6" that the jointer gives you: buy/borrow a bigger jointer, learn to handplane, or make a planer sled that will joint faces (do a search on the site and you'll find a recent issue with plans for this).

   Best of luck.

   The older I get, the better I was....

2. 
   hammer1 | Feb 27, 2006 07:53am | #2

   In many cases, you can go directly to the planer. It will depend on the condition of the rough stock and sometimes, your planer. Some small planers have trouble feeding rough stock. Boards that sit flat and straight in the rough don't always need flattening on the jointer first, however, boards that have a twist or crook, etc. will not have the problem taken out. You can always reduce a boards length in order to get fairly flat sections and being selective when you buy the lumber can help. The face of the board does not have to be 100% surfaced on a jointer. You only need enough continuous flat areas to register to the planer table.

   There is a way to use the jointer for wider material. Most jointers are set up for rabbetting. The blades come even with a rabbet in the outfeed table. You remove the blade guard so that a wider board can pass. You can cut to the width capacity of the jointer on the first pass. The remainder of the board will hang off the edge of the outfeed table. To remove the wood that is left, you set up the jointer as a flush cutter.

   A shim plate is glued to the front edge along the infeed table, something like a piece of 1/4" plywood or a couple strips of Formica, will work. The strip should be a bit thicker than the cut that was necessary to get a flat run. Spray adhesive or double sided tape can be used to adhere the strip. The strip needs to be wide enough to support the cut you first made but narrow enough to expose the needed width of the knives to finish the cut. Once you have the necessary strip attached, you lower the infeed table until the added strip is flush with the outfeed table. By holding the stock to the strip and outfeed table, the excess overhanging material will be trimmed flush with the first cut.

   For one or two boards it may be just as easy to finish the excess with a hand plane. Using a shim on the jointer means that one of the two passes will be against the grain. It's best to allow for a finishing cut on that face with the planer. Making the minimum depth of cut, that will do the job, is always a good idea.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   RMillard | Feb 27, 2006 02:42pm | #3

   I don't own a jointer, but I'm not at all handicapped because of the lack of one.

   For the most part, the planer won't true the stock. The old saying is banana in banana out; in other words, the planer will just leave you with a thinner crooked board than you started with. Properly employed it can remove a little cupping and bowing, but not twist ( at least not, twist without a fixture)

   I rough plane on side flat, either with a power plane or hand plane depending on the volume, using a straight edge and winding sticks to test for trueness. The goal is to remove and bowing, cupping and twist. The face need not be perfect, it should just be true enough that the stock doesn't rock as it goes through the planer.

   In working with typical furniture length lumber ( 4'-5' or less) this method is much faster than the sled method I see described. It usually takes me no more than 2-3 minutes to flatten a board before sending it through the planer.

   Rob Millard

1. 
   woodlark | Feb 28, 2006 01:38am | #4

   I agree with Rob. A few low spots won't affect the flatness when the board is passed through the planer. Using handplanes I can remove the absolute minimum I need to before passing it through the planer. On the other hand, I am planning on buying an 8 inch jointer.