I need to steam bend a panel into a concave curve. The panel is 5/16″ thick oak, and it’s edge-glued from 4 pieces. Does anyone have any experience with steaming glued up panels? My concern is that the glue is going to fail as the panel takes on the moisture and heat from the steam. Any suggestions?
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Replies
What kind of glue did you use?
Aliphatic wood glue (from Elmer's)
Edited 1/26/2005 4:20 pm ET by Jerry
I don't do a lot of steam bending. Bent lams. usually work for the stuff that I do.
The bad news is that the Elmer's probably won't hold up to the heat. In fact, heat is usually recommended as a way to 'un-glue' a joint glued with the type of glue you've used. At least that's my opinion. However, you might be able to pull off this bend by simply soaking the panel in cold water for several days.
You ought to post this on a few other forums to get a wide range of opinions before you do the bend or give up on the panel you've prepared.
It will fall apart in the steam - I don't know much about epoxies the one kind I have used melts when it gets hot and would not hold.
You need to cooper the panel like a barrel to get the curve or find a solid panel wide enough to steam bend.
The problem I have is that the width of the panels need to be about 12", so finding a board that wide is pretty hard, not to mention that I couldn't resaw it to 3/8" or less as I don't have a band saw at all. Since the glue probably won't hold up to steaming, I was planning on just bending it into the shape and gluing it. The curve is only 1-3/4" over a 34" length. they are curved side panels on an altar I'm building for my church. The front and back panels are a full 1" thick and I've rabbeted the edges of those to recieve the curved panels. I have 3 cross braces that it can be attached to, and I was also thinking that I could run a single screw into the center of the panel from each one to hold it tight to the cross braces. This would allow some mechanical fastening as well as account for seasonal changes in dimension.
Again, any ideas you all have are greatly appreciated.
If the panel is not visible from the back, you can cut some kerfs in the back. You can also use bendable plywood if it is a flat panel.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
5/16 thick Oak panel 12in. wide " I assume your not talking frame and panel attaching cleats on the back to pull the panel into a curve? " you are applying them to the front?
If the Panels are applied to the front with the cleats and pulled into the curve - the sides of the panels that over lays the frame work would not fit up tight . It would pull the curve - but from the edge of the opening to the edge of the panel will be flat leaving a gap down the edges .
I would go to a Cabinet Shop . We almost all ways have a few 12 in. wide and wider Oak- and cabinet shops will have a planer and or wide belt sander . I would get wide panels milled down and bend them - Could be a Donation
5/16 thick 12 in. wide not sure how much movement but would attach so they could move. I would glue a small cleat "3/4 X 3/4 X ?" to each side with the grain of the panel to screw to to avoid screwing into the panel that thin it might split - inside you need to make something to screw through to pull the panels up tight make slots in it to let the screws move side to side.
When you steam bend it will spring back some also it needs to dry on what ever you form it to or the bend will straighten out as it dries.
Being only 5/16 thick I would try Dry Heat with a Heat Gun . Make a form with more bend than you need " it will always spring back a little even with steam and when it dries on a form " Another reason to get more bend is so the edges of your panels will be a tight fit when you pull it with the screws . You have got to get it the wood HOT all the way through and the entire surface, so hot you cant touch it but just a second but keep the Heat Gun moving it will scorch the wood " you can set it on fire with the heat gun" let it cool
I haven't bent a Panel like this but have done this making Wood Archery Bows about a 3/8 thickness.
Ron
Edited 1/27/2005 1:37 am ET by Ron
The panel is the outside surface. It is basically just a box with a curved side. 3 of the sides are straight & 1" thick and the curved side has 3 braces runing across it to keep it square. The panel just needs to be bent to fit into this curve. Since I used aliphatic wood glue (probably not the best choice for this instance), I think the heat from a heat gun would probably do about the same as steam - soften up the glue. At this point, the top and bottom of the "box" are still open so I can access all 3 braces after the panel has been set in place. Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera so taking a picture of it for you to see isn't possible.
I thought about using 1/4" ply for this, but there is no plywood anywhere else in this project, so I wanted to avoid using it here.
There should be no need to bend. Just build it curved. As in the link below.http://www.robertscpa.com/kayaks/lowboy.JPG
Nice lowboy! Looks like some outstanding work! The panel that I need to bend though, has the curve runing top to bottom, not front to back. If it were front to back like in your lowboy, I would have just coopered the pieces to make the curve.
So how long did it take you to build that?
I guess you already glued up you panels ? really not to sure I follow you ?
Curve from top to bottom - say you made your panels over and you were gluing them up from 3/4 stock - before you glued them up draw out your curve on the edge of your panel stock cut them on the bandsaw and then glue them together?
I think you have lost me is it curving both ways??????
I geuss you could make your own Plywood with Oak that will match
Ron
I don't know the answer to this, but I'm wondering if you could get away with this if you used polyurethane glue. Don't know how it would react to being bent, but I think it might have the best chance of not being affected by the steam. The big question is, once it's cured, would the steam affect it. But given that it wants water to cure, makes me think you might be able to do it with poly glue. Too bad you already glued up with the Elmers.
I love the smell of sawdust in the morning.
Those were filler jobs. (I made a pair for my grandkids.) They sat around the shop for a couple months.
Cooper your panels in the other direction. Tenons might help.
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