Replies

1. 
   ring | Feb 04, 2006 10:42am | #1

   While you're waiting for it to set, start preparing for what you do when it doesn't work.

   Not that I don't wish you luck, I'm just a realist.

   DR

2. 
   bugeye | Feb 04, 2006 03:28pm | #2

   I've done it lots of times. You have to have realitic expectations. If the thickness of your stock still leaves room for jointing, it'll work. You just can't expect your steam bending to give you a finished, flat board. I have taken lots of boards that were hopelessly twisted, and steam bent them to where the jointer could straighten them out. After you bend it, leave it clamped up for as long as time allows. Good luck.

1. 
   scottvelie | Feb 04, 2006 04:20pm | #3

   Thanks,

   Today is the day I wil let you know.

   Scott[email protected]

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1. 
   stevo_wis | Feb 07, 2006 07:40pm | #4

   Hi Scott,I just returned from Williamsburg and Curtis Buchanan the chairmaker from Tennesee uses a heat gun to straighten spindles and other warped things. He was a big believer in it. He also steams his pieces that he bends. In his discussion, he mentioned that the heat is what really allows for bending and that the steam just is a carrier for the heat.
   Please post your results.Stevo

1. 
   scottvelie | Feb 08, 2006 12:50am | #5

   The results were good,

   The initial warp in the board (5/8 x 10 x 75") was pretty bad.

   If you pressed one end flat on the bench the raised end of the warp on the other end was 1.5".

   I threw together a steam box and steamed it for 50 minutes.

   I clamped it to the bench with a flat spacer on one end and a wedge going the opposite way of the bend (overbent by 1") on the other.

   Results: board is now flat on the ends to within 1/16". It has a 1/8 bow in the middle that will be OK.

   The result will be edge glued to 4 others and flat glued to 3/4 MDF, all with epoxy.

   Scott[email protected]

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1. 
   DonStephan | Feb 08, 2006 03:14am | #6

   You might to think about gluing the solid wood boards to MDF backer. The boards will want to expand and contract with ambient humidity and temperature and the MDF will not, setting up tension. Even with the epoxy bond you may develop splits in the surface of the boards. If re-warping is a concern, how about gluing your face boards to another set of quarter sawn boards of the same species with the joints offset? That should provide additional stability (especially if quartersawn) without creating too much tension, since two layers of the same species will want to move about the same.

2. 
   JohnWW | Feb 08, 2006 06:12am | #7

   I second the advice about not gluing solid wood to MDF, especially if the panel is wide, the difference in expansion and contraction will lead to problems.John W.

3. 
   scottvelie | Feb 08, 2006 06:26am | #8

   Yes those are good points.

   First I have no more of the maple and I have considered the problem.

   I think what I will do is edge glue the maple with epoxy and pocket screws.

   Then screw the MDF to the maple from below through slots and flat washers.

   I can then attach the maple edging to the maple alone with biscuits.

   Scott

    [email protected]

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