Replies

1. 
   wbwood | Jul 07, 2002 06:11am | #1

   Don,

   I have used "plumber's tape" for compression straps and it works pretty well. "Plumber's tape" is the metal strapping that plumber's use to hang pipe from joists and who knows what else... you may know it by a different name. At any rate, it's about an inch wide with pre-drilled holes which are convenient for 1/4" or 3/16" carriage bolts to fasten your straps with. I was bending some quartersawn sycamore that was 1 1/4" thick and about 3" wide so I used three of these straps and it went ok.

   I came across two types of this strapping material. One was galvanized. I thought this would be good-not stain, rust etc. This was true, but it was real stiff and kinky...hmmm... hard to work with. Also, the holes were not at regular intervals and were also two different diameters.

   The other material was softer, easier to work with and the holes were all the same diameter(1/4" I think) and had regular spacing. I think this was tin. Not sure. It did leave a very light stain which sanded off easily. I would recommend this stuff. It is cheap, and it works good.

   Good luck.wb

2. 
   user-73498 | Jul 08, 2002 01:33am | #2

   Don;

   Try using spring steel.  It can be found at most home centers.  Check with Mike Dunbar at the Windsor Inst.  They do alot of steam bending.  I have taken a couple class with him.  They started using bending straps and have had good luck.

   Clem

1. 
   DonStephan | Jul 08, 2002 04:48pm | #3

   Couldn't find anything labelled spring steel at Home Depot. Did bring home 1/16" x 1.25" x 48" strap with 5/16" holes all along. Seems to bend more easily and uniformly than solid strap. Not sure if the holes will allow the wood to expand unevenly and telegraph through after finishing. Maybe not - steamed wood should have already swollen all it is going to? Don

1. 
   wbwood | Jul 08, 2002 05:13pm | #4

   Don,

   Glad you found something. Sounds like the same strap I mentioned previously. I found that the holes are a real convenience, although the wood does swell slightly through the holes, these "bumps" smooth out very quickly and proved to be no problem.

   By the way, I wanted to personally thank you for alone shouldering all the load of "pompous bigotry" found on this forum.It's been a wonderful relief to me, and that's putting it mildly.Thanks from, well everyone Don! wb

3. 
   jackiechan | Jul 09, 2002 06:53am | #5

   Don,

   I do an extensive amount of steam bending in my custom furniture business.  You need to get either galvanized or stainless steel sheet metal.  (Galvanized is much cheaper.)  I guarantee that you won't find it at Home Depot!  Grab your local yellow pages and look under sheet metal.  I have a local sheet metal shop in my area that cuts 4' x 8' sheets into any size I need with a rolling cutter.  (This eliminates sharp jagged edges.)  The size and wood type that you are bending determines the gauge of the steel.  You want to use the heaviest gauge possible - you can't overbuild a compression strap.  There are many thousands of pounds of force being exerted on the strap.  To build a strap, you will need the metal, carriage bolts, washers, nuts, an indelible marker, and hard wood (I use white oak).  The metal strap should be the same width as the stock being bent.  Lay the stock on top of the strap leaving 1/4 of the stock's total length exposed on either end.  (e.g. if you had a 12" piece of stock, you'd want the strap to be 18" - with 3" sticking out on either end.)  Mark the metal where the wood ends, set you stock aside, and cut a piece of hard wood the size of the metal tail end for an end stop.  Mark the center, and drill holes through it the correct size to match your carriage bolts.  Use the end stop as a drilling guide, and drill holes through the sheet metal.  Now take another piece of long hard wood, and cut it to 2/3 the length of the bending stock.  This will be your backing block and leverage handle.  This piece will be bolted onto the other side of the metal strap, with 1/3 as the handle, and 1/3 going down the back of the strap.  Drill corresponding holes in the backer block, and bolt together the end stop, the metal strap (in the middle), and the backer block.  With one end bolted together, lay the stock back on the strap up against the stop - mark the other end of the stock on the metal, and repeat the process for the other handle.  Do a dry run of loading the blank into the strap.  If there is any slop in the fit (it should be tight), you'll want to create some shims to take up the slack.  Make sure it's something hard (e.g. plastic laminate, phenolic plastic.) otherwise they'll get crushed!

   Dan Kornfeld - President/Owner Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   DonStephan | Jul 09, 2002 04:26pm | #6

   Thanks for all the details. You saved me probably an hour or two and some frustration. I would have tried something similar for the end stops, but would have made them too short. Also would not have thought of the bending handles!

   I'll try some galvanized sheet metal for the cherry test from the HVAC company down the street, and will start canvassing for a metal shop that has stainless sheet.