I am building a prototype “treasure chest” for a client who will want 4 for his girls. It is a cross between a jewelry box and a steamer trunk. It is about 13″w x 21″ l, ½” thick solid walnut with grain running lengthwise and dovetailed corners. The bottom is also walnut and will sit in rabbets and dados like a drawer. I plan to allow about ¼” for growth in the width.
My questions are:
How do I keep the bottom centered during glue-up? (I’d like to glue the bottom at the center for strength.)
How do I keep the glue off the bottom at the corners to allow it to move? (I want the box strong enough for these small children to mistreat it, as they probably will at some point.)
I want a curved top and am looking for tips on joinery for that also. My present thoughts are tongue and groove strips but I have no connections figured out for the ends. Any help here?
Any other help or suggestions will be appreciated.
Thanks
Richard
Edited 1/6/2004 11:11:31 PM ET by Richard
Replies
you have me a little confused about your gluing up problem--can you use wax paperor wax a particular area--I have made several dome top boxes using Jeff Greef's jig -- it is shown in his Marvelous Wooden Boxes pg 116 -- I made the top out of slidiing dovetails so I was able to get the thickness I needed-- the dovetails are verticial then each row is glued together--by using different woods the curved top sort of distorts the dovetails and changes colors interesting! I KNOW THE DIRECTIONS FOR Jeff's jig are a little complicated but not really hard--once you have the jig you can make many more boxes good luckif you get back to I 'll try to send a pix --Vern
Vern,
Thanks for the response. I guess using care in the amount of glue in the corners and alignment marks can get me past the glue-up.
It sounds like you used dovetails where I had planned to use tongue and groove. How did the strips attach to the end pieces? I'm now thinking about just glue and screws with enough gap between the strips for seasonal movement.
Thanks again,
Richard
Richard I think that what you are making is larger than my box-- but even if it is there shouldn't be a problem of restricted movement at the end-- I use the Incra to make the dovetails and with that you can make joints the same way corners are made but just straighten the joint out --that is confusing so make them anyway that you want to --anyway you end up with a whole bunch of dovetails locked together and glued together which makes up a big chunk of wood so that when you cut the curve[actually 2 curves] you don't run out of wood[if you use Jeff's method] there is no frame aat the end of this top!! sand them smooth- I will get my grandson to figure out how to send a pix to you-- he might be by here tomorrow Thurs-- went to town this afternoon and picked up 70 bd ft curly cherry[ it was really only highly figured but it should work ok for a conference table 4.55 $ Vernon
Richard,
Do you have any pictures of this trunk. I am thinking of building a trunk for a coffee table so that I have storage within it but it can double as a table. Thanks...
Regards,
Buzzsaw
Buzzsaw,
Yes I do have some pictures of my finished chest but I'm unable to post them on the site. My computer has picked up a virus, I guess, and I just can't go very deep into any particular page. I wanted to post pictures when I was building, for input but could not.
My chest is too small for a coffee table but it is similar in style to a steamer trunk and uses steamer trunk hardware. Mine is considered a treasure chest, I believe. It is the rounded top that I wanted, and built, but that style wouldn't work as well as a coffee table. Today's Woodworker issue 47 has plans for a steamer trunk that doubles as a coffee table. I think the book/plans were available at Rockler.
If you still want to see my project, I guess I could attach them to an e-mail to you.
Thanks for all your input to the site.
Richard
Richard,
I'd love to see your trunk project. My email address is: [email protected].
Thanks..Regards,
Buzzsaw
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