Replies

1. 
   stantheman | Mar 03, 2022 01:23pm | #1

   IMO, I have always considered wax to be only a temporary coating for temporary appearance purposes, and not a finish in itself at all. Especially on a surface that will be used heavily like a kitchen table.

2. 
   john_c2 | Mar 03, 2022 02:52pm | #2

   Wax looks great on a lot of things. But it really offers almost no protection. I wouldn't personally bother on a kitchen table that gets hard use. But if you like the way it looks, go ahead.

3. 
   _mj_ | Mar 03, 2022 04:42pm | #3

   Won't help it, won't hurt it. It'll be gone once the table is washed down a few times. Wax is nowhere close to as water-resistant as the poly.

   I'll do the steel wool and wax thing to lower or even out the sheen on a finished surface, with the wax acting as a lube for the steel wool. The wax gets rubbed out afterwards, but I don't really consider it the finish.

1. 
   rob_ss | Mar 04, 2022 03:36am | #6

   You got there first! Poly followed by this treatment is my go-to finish for anything that gets wear.

4. 
   jharveyb | Mar 03, 2022 10:02pm | #4

   First, wax is not really suitable for any horizontal surface that might get water on it, as you can get white rings if the water sits for a while (like under a glass of cold drink in the summer.)
   I also would never use steel wool on a surface that might get wet for a while. If the water/steel ever does get thru the finish, you will have ugly black marks when it reacts with the tannin in the walnut. I would rub it out with a synthetic abrasive pad, if you need to rub it out.
   I continue to be mystified why so many woodworkers think the go-to finish is polyurethane. There is no repairing it at all; its only real advantage over other varnishes is its abrasion resistance. But if it does get damaged, you either live with it or remove it all to bare wood.
   My go-to finish now for furniture, including table tops (I just refinished my own dining table (walnut) and kitchen table (red oak) is Waterlox Original. It is classified as a wiping varnish, which means it is relatively easy to apply. It has about 25% solids, which is thin, so the first coat penetrates like an oil finish, bringing out the color and figure of the wood. Successive coats build a beautiful protective finish. (There are certainly other brands that work well; Waterlox is the one I use, so I can recommend it.) It is more time-consuming than spraying a coat of sanding sealer and a top coat, as it usually takes me 5 or six coats on a table top to decide I'm done. There was an article in FWW not too long ago on how to achieve a beautiful mirror finish with Waterlox Original. Like the author, I apply the bulk coats with a foam brush, making sure each is an even coat. As per the Waterlox tech person's recommendation, I apply 3 coats before sanding it level, to make sure I have enough thickness to avoid sanding thru. I can apply a coat per day, but wait an extra day before sanding it level (320 grit). I then apply one or two more bulk coats, till the finish looks even. Again I wait an extra day before leveling with 400 grit wet or dry, lubricated with mineral spirits. Here's my real tip: for the last coat (or two, if there are still faint sanding scratches showing), I make a "mouse" (as in French polishing) by wrapping a small cotton ball with a quarter of an old men's white handkerchief (think no remaining lint, and extremely fine thread count.) I rub on a thin wet coat, making sure not to leave any dry spots. The thin coat dries almost immediately, leaving no time for dust to settle into the finish. Yes, I make sure my clothes and the workbench aren't covered in sanding dust! Sometimes it takes 2 thin coats to get it looking right. (I have no connection to Waterlox Corp. except that of loyal customer.) I'll attach a picture or two.
   The first is a newly constructed walnut top for an antique chest of drawers. Second is a refinished walnut dining table. Third, just for fun, is a crotch mahogany coffee table, also finished with Waterlox.

   
1. 
   rob_ss | Mar 04, 2022 03:52am | #7

   No denying the quality there!
   It is very hard to get some of these products in New Zealand - Waterlox is essentially unavailable.
   I suspect that the use of polyurethane comes from its ready availability - if you go to a box store here you will find a lot of water and oil based polyurethane. You can get danish oil and tung oil, and waxy shellac flakes, but really the choice of finishes in the large stores is very small. This leads to having to make do with what you can get. Having done that, the effort of finding a better finish is less appealing. Getting something a bit different requires a transaction with a specialist of some nature and you will rarely find them having more than one product from which to choose.
   When you do get recommended a finish you can get your hands on readily, there are often a bewildering array of products all with similar names and precious little indication of which is best for what purpose.
   It's hardly surprising that people go back to what they know.

2. 
   user-210490 | Mar 04, 2022 08:40am | #8

   Thanks for this - why do you feel poly cannot be repaired? For minor scratches couldn't it be sanded back and a thin coat reapplied?

1. 
   jharveyb | Mar 04, 2022 09:52am | #10

   For oil based poly, no, you can't. The finish won't stick. Even when applying it to new wood, you have to get the timing of successive coats right (see can label) or the finish will delaminate. Water based poly may be a bit different. In fact, I've just experimented with trying to restore such a finish. I scuff sanded it, then applied a coat of poly. It beaded up instead of flattening out, so I rubbed most of it away. We'll have to wait to see if what little was left stays put. I was willing to try it because some water based polys do "burn in" to the previous layers better than oil based.

1. 
   JT_NM | Mar 05, 2022 09:02am | #11

   In a case like this, I would sand out the scratches, then apply a "seal coat" of shellac and then poly. Shouldn't be a problem.

5. 
   thebardowl | Mar 03, 2022 10:58pm | #5

   Very nice, Harvey! They’re all gorgeous, and the mahogany is stunning. I’m wondering if I haven’t just learned of my go-to finishing procedure.

1. 
   user-210490 | Mar 04, 2022 08:41am | #9

   Thank You Everyone for your help