Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Jun 29, 2006 09:25pm | #1

   I'm not aware of any comparison information.  This is probably because steel wool cuts differently from sandpaper and isn't interchangable with sand paper in most woodworking applications, so there isn't much need to compare the two.

   John W. 

2. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 30, 2006 04:13am | #2

   Here's the info you want.

   4/0 steel wool = 400 grit sandpaper
   3/0 steel wool = 280 grit
   2/0 steel wool = 180 grit
   2/0 steel wool = 120 grit
   1 steel wool = 100 grit
   2 steel wool = 60 grit
   3 steel wool = 50 grit
   4 steel wool = 36 grit

   Anticipating the next question:

   White Scotchbrite = 1200 grit (it has no abrasive)
   Gray Scotchbrite = about 400 - 600
   Maroon Scotchbrite = about 220-280
   Green Scotchbrite = about 150 - 180

   Be a little careful. Different manufacturers of non-woven abrasive material may be somewhat different. The above is for 3M Scotch-Brite brand.

   Howie.........

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/29/2006 9:19 pm ET by HowardAcheson

1. 
   jazzdogg | Jun 30, 2006 07:53am | #3

   Hi Howard,

   I've found that Liberon steel wool seems to provide a more consistent scratch pattern than other brands; some of the cheap steel wool seems to have stray strands that are a lot coarser than the rest: it's inconsistent.

   Liberon is also the only steel wool I've found that's un-oiled.

    

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jun 30, 2006 10:43pm | #5

   In general I don't used steel wool. But, your point about inconsistant fibers in most steel wool is correct. Most also contains oil.I much prefer the non-woven abrasive pads. They are more consistant, can be cleaned and reused, do not deteriorate as you used them and they do not "shed" little steel shards that can become imbedded in the surface and rust at a later date.Howie.........

2. 
   zombeerose | Jun 30, 2006 06:18pm | #4

   I wish I lived closer to you b/c you always amaze me at the amount of info you know. I'm sure I could learn a lot from you.As always, thanks for your help! :)

   "100 Years" -- scribbled on the wall by a woodworker to remind him to do his best and as a warranty on his work -- "If anything I make fails in the first hundred years, bring it back, and I'll take care of it. After that, there will be a small charge. (Original purchaser only)"

3. 
   sapwood | Jul 25, 2006 04:51am | #8

   In my experience 4/0 steel wool behaves like a much finer "abrasive" than does 400 grit. I use a lot of wiping varnish using 400 to apply the first coat. If I use that same grit on subsequent coats then there is no added sheen. However if I use 4/0 steel wool the sheen builds to a semi-gloss. The final rub is still with the steel wool. If I hit it at all with 400 or even 600 grit, the surface again looks "sanded."As John said, there is really no point in comparing steel wool to sandpaper. They behave differently. They are used for different reasons.

3. 
   Rich14 | Jun 30, 2006 11:17pm | #6

   I don't think there is any direct comparison between steel wool and sand paper. Add the fact that at that level of abrading (4-0 ~ 400-600 grit) it's pretty common to use a lubricant, you have all kinds of variables -

   Steel wool with or without lubricant vs 400-600 grit with or without lubricant vs type of lubricant, etc. The final abraded surface is somewhat different for all possible variables and for the kind of finish being rubbed.

   In any case, those three abrasives are in the same general ballpark.

   I've never had a problem regarding the so-called inconsistent quality of "ordinary" 4-0 steel wool. No random larger scratches, just a uniform scratch pattern. I think that the particles just break down to a fairly uniform size over the several minutes of rubbing. I don't know what problem the oil in steel wool is supposed to cause either. I've never used the "high end" stuff such as Liberon.

   I also have never seen any of the so-called rusting problem caused by steel wool particles getting caught in the finish. Maybe that's because I don't rub out a finish until it has fully hardened. I suppose particles could get caught in a soft finish film.

   Rich

1. 
   pins | Jul 25, 2006 03:40am | #7

   I agree with Rich. I use generic 0000 steel wool, but only for lightly removing lint, etc. from the final coat and I don't think sandpaper and steel wool are apples and apples. If I have to use sandpaper or if I have to lean a little heavy on the steel wool (meaning I should have used sandpaper in the first place) another final coat of finish is required and I use twice laundered flannel and a very thin coat of finish to eliminate any scratch marks.In a small shop with no dedicated finishing room keeping lint and dust from the finish is very difficult.BTW: Lee Valley has an oil free steel wool.John

2. 
   jazzdogg | Jul 25, 2006 06:27am | #9

   "I also have never seen any of the so-called rusting problem caused by steel wool particles getting caught in the finish."

   Hi Rich,

   This is a problem primarily when people use steel wool in conjunction with water-borne finishes.

    -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   sapwood | Jul 25, 2006 07:57pm | #10

   I used a lot of oak back in the 80's with my preferred oil/varnish/wipe-on/wipe-off finish. Steel wool would flake off and get into the open pores of the oak. This wasn't a problem except in high moisture areas like bathrooms. Then the steel would react with the oak to give black specks. Not a really desirable look. So, now I'm more cautious.

4. 
   LumberJax | Aug 13, 2019 10:56am | #11

   Yep, I've had similar experience too, I don't use steel much at all any more unless it's a particular situation.

5. 
   SpatialGuy | Sep 19, 2019 02:27am | #12

   G’day Howie.
   I know this thread is a couple of years old (13). Off chance you’re still about, where did you get those figures? Are the verifiable, accurate?? You left no reference to your information.
   Cheers, Michael

6. 
   dcp123 | Sep 30, 2019 03:42pm | #13

   13 years later, can I say that Howie is my hero. No, the are no exact equivalences, but there's so much information here about what is comparable to what. I git more from his post than the first 10 websites I went to, including 3M's.

   Thank you.