Hello, I’m new here. This is a newbie question. I have a 54″ diameter QSWO table top I got from a neighbor that was a coffee table. I’m convinced it was a dining table at one point in its life. It has part of a dining table slider on the bottom for expansion. I’m planning on attempting to build a base similar to a Stickley #634 table. I bought Robert Lang’s book of shop drawings which will help with dimensions. I’m unclear, though, on attaching the center pedestal to the top. I’m assuming I’ll use figure eight table top connectors, but I’m not certain this is correct. That’s the only way I can think of to account for wood movement. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
This has cross stretchers? Parallel to the grain you don't need anything.
I like buttons. I think they are more secure than figure 8's.
Thanks for your response. The apron is mortised into the legs. The legs have stretchers at the bottom that attach to a 6x6 pedestal in the center. The pedestal splits diagonally to add extension leaves to the table.
You can screw a block to the underside of the table that will fit into a hollow pedestal or two blocks to fit on either side of a solid one and just screw through. The seasonal wood movement is directed away from center towards the outer edges. I am assuming the table will no longer be opening and closing.
If you are building the table with expansion leaves in mind you will be making the center pedestal in 2 parts to split with the table.
Either way you'll use your figure 8's or buttons around your upper curved stretchers or straight interior stretchers if you build any in. (a must for a splitter)
If you are not doing an expander you could re-glue the split top... just don't remove enough to throw the top noticably out of round.
https://i.etsystatic.com/5556887/r/il/c11ae2/385815167/il_1140xN.385815167_3v91.jpg
https://daltons.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/634-3.jpg
Thanks MJ. I'm definitely planning on including expansion leaves. I've seen the pics you attached. The pedestal will split diagonally to allow the table to open. Since this will be hollow inside (to allow for QSWO on all four faces), I'll add reinforcing blocks inside. I'm thinking I can use a screw or dowel through the top block into the table top.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled