Replies

1. 
   Rob_Sp | Sep 12, 2013 07:38pm | #1

   Mineral spirits will do

   Then ditch the linseed oil. There are better products out there. Waterlox for one.  

2. 
   killenwood | Sep 12, 2013 11:37pm | #2

   Willim, nothing wrong with using linseed oil, but it can take some work to achieve desired results. I suspect your problem is failing to wipe off residual oil on the surface after application.

   I flood the piece with linseed oil and rub it to soak it in. In spots that look dry, I flood again with oil. This may take an hour of application and getting the dry areas to quit soaking. But after that hour, I spend a lot of time wiping the surfaces as dry as I can get  them. I use blue paper towels and make sure to lay them out on the driveway for drying to avoid a fire. 

   The next day you can repeat this process, and there should be no stickiness on the surface. After about a month or so, the piece may start to look dry again. You can repeat the oil finishing at any time, but key to wipe it off.

   Since you already have the gooey mess on the surface, you need to remove it with mineral spirits and 4/0 steel wool. Then start over. Be sure to handle the oily rags or paper towels in way that avoids spontaneous combustion.

   i always apply linseed oil at first, but then cover with shellac as I get a better and faster finish that way.

   Tim

3. 
   Ed_Pirnik | Sep 13, 2013 09:30am | #3

   Linseed Oil troubles

   Couple of things going on here. First off - mineral spirits should serve to dissolve the un-cured oil. You might want to scrub it down with a somewhat fine scotchbrite pad and mineral spirits.

   Now as to why it may have happend. Did you use "Boiled" linseed oil? That's the stuff you want to use. Regular linseed never really cures, you need to use the boiled variety. Next, did you dilute it before application? Generally, I dilute at a proportion of 50/50 (boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits). Linseed oil is thick stuff and needs to be diluted. it will go on more easily and dry more quickly when diluted.

   In general, I wipe it on, allow it to sit for about five minutes and then buff it out. Don't let it sit too long before buffing--it will start to get tacky and gummy and you'll have a helluva time rubbing out the excess.

   Additionally, there's no point in applying any more than 2 coats. The wood won't really absorb more than that.

   And finally of course, after you've applied your two coats, let it sit for a good week before applying paste wax. It needs to cure, not just dry. This is the process I used on my Not-So-Big-Workbench and I had absolutely no trouble with it.

   Of course, Waterlox is super nice as well, and won't impart that deep yellow hue to light-colored woods like BLO will.

   Best,

   Ed

4. 
   larryled | Oct 03, 2013 07:45pm | #4

   sticky oil finish

   Tim is right on and the only thing that I would add is the same comment that I've made on another thread about finishes not drying.   And that is if you've wiped the surface mostly dry, and it's sticky the next day it is most likely that you did your finishing during low temperatures and or hight humidity.  These two conditions really affect the drying of any finish, especially tung/linseed oils.  Larry