Replies

1. 
   rob_ss | Aug 09, 2022 04:32am | #1

   It's hard to know the cause, but after 3 weeks it's probably as fully set as it will ever be. I'd give it a bit longer if you can, but if that does not fix it, I'd go for a strip and re-do. Is it warm enough where you are? Not too humid?
   I doubt sanding would work if it is sticky - use stripper.
   Bear in mind my experience in this is one piece that did this many years ago - I'm mostly posting to keep this question higher in the forum list as I'm interested in other replies too.

1. 
   randomwoodguy | Aug 09, 2022 04:48am | #2

   I’m in England the humidity is around 50rh most days lately so and about 25c on average most days for last few weeks hopefully it’ll cure in more time . Thanks for your reply hopefully someone will also add to the thread and help us out

2. 
   randomwoodguy | Aug 21, 2022 10:27pm | #11

   Hello just reporting back as you asked me to keep you updated. The table was left longer to dry and eventually the polyurethane dried out naturally I believe hot weather and higher humidity prolonged the drying time massively but now the top is not sticky anymore. Thanks

1. 
   _mj_ | Aug 22, 2022 08:28am | #12

   Thanks for the closure report! I'm glad it went well for you.

2. 
   john_c2 | Aug 22, 2022 06:15pm | #13

   That's great.

2. 
   _mj_ | Aug 09, 2022 06:12am | #3

   It sounds like your topcoat is dry but some solvents from the earlier coat are still trapped / migrating out. Put the table somewhere you can ignore it for a month. If the can of finish was not past its prime it should cure eventually.

1. 
   randomwoodguy | Aug 09, 2022 09:19am | #4

   Thank you for the advice I’ll try that .

3. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 09, 2022 01:20pm | #5

   Like a previous post mentioned....past its prime or possibly bad chemistry. Manufacturers are constantly having to reformulate to meet constantly changing voc requirements. The additves for dryers evaporate either from age or sometimes I think they blow it. New off the store shelf doesn't always mean it's new.
   I've never tried this with poly but I've done it with paint and some finishes that I decided was never going to dry.
   Repeat the whole process that you just did on some scrap wood. Preferably the same type of wood. After a sufficient amount of time left to dry ,and it's still not dry, coat the whole thing with japan dryer and see if that doesn't kick it off. Hopefully it causes the poly to dry and doesn't wreck the finish. If you try it and it works,or even if it doesn't report back. It would be good to know.

1. 
   bilyo | Aug 09, 2022 03:33pm | #6

   Sorry. But japan drier is for mixing with the product before you apply it, not after. However, if the finish has to be re-done, that would be a good option to try.

   Also, if you have to strip it and start over, I suggest that you try a water based poly. It dries fast and hard and will probably be less affected by the high humidity. It is pretty humid where I am and I have used quite a bit of a water based over the last year. No problems.
   Water based is water clear. So, you need to have the color, either stain or dye, on the wood before you apply it. If you like the amber color of oil based poly and you want to try the water based poly, you can start with a first coat of amber shellac.

4. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 09, 2022 03:59pm | #7

   I do know what Japan dryer is for ,that's why I have it --- but I have used it in rescue operations such as what the poster is looking for and it has been effective in causing applied finishes that refuse to dry to dry. This is not a common occurrence so my experience is limited.
   I really hate strippers, strippers that actually work are getting difficult to find and I'm not sure but might be banned in my woke state. They also can be really damaging to wood if it gets out of hand....And they are messy. So if in experimentation the dryer works--- great! If it doesn't your no worse off! It could be humidity and needs more time but in my experience finishes dry in Bangkok!

5. 
   mlindy | Aug 09, 2022 06:52pm | #8

   Overcoating a sticky finish is a bad idea.
   I agree with giving more time. perhaps in a sun-exposed spot for a day or two with good warmth.

6. 
   pantalones868 | Aug 09, 2022 07:18pm | #9

   More time has been advised and it's good advise but what IS the good idea if it never dries. I painted a floor once ,and my bad, I used some paint of unknown origin that was probably really old, maybe ancient. I believe the paint was the same paint from the time it had been painted before. That could have been years! It was there so I used it. It didn't dry in a day, a week , a month, I concluded that it was never going to dry. It would have been easier by far to replace the entire floor than to try and remove the paint.This was the origin of the Japan drier cross my fingers fix ,good idea or not the paint hardened up.

7. 
   user-210490 | Aug 09, 2022 07:35pm | #10

   What I don't like about oil poly is the slow dry time that gets all the dust nibs in it. It brushes out well, but you also need to be careful sanding between coats. 50% humidity really should not be the issue with dry time. After you give it more time, and I don't think that will matter, I would sand it back to bare wood. Using a stripper just makes a mess. I've successfully sanded off a poly finish that I didn't like going first with 80 grit, taking your time with even passes until you get down to the wood. You will make many disc changes while you do this. Then re-sand the surface to whatever final grit. With oil poly you can get a first coat straight from the can, sand with 220, next coats go on easier cutting it 25% with mineral spirits, which also helps with leveling, sand in between with 320. When you are all done, give it a week or two before putting it to use, this will give the finish time to properly cure and the solvents to flash off. Oil poly gives a finish a nice amber hue, the water based can make certain woods look a bit plastic. If there's any doubt about the workability of the finish you just used, get some fresh finish. Hope this helps.