Replies

1. 
   bobJackson | Aug 27, 2004 04:59am | #1

   I take great pains to set up the shapers to all flush up the stile, rail , and the raised panel. then after the door is glued up they go through the sander..  bob

2. 
   Stearns | Aug 27, 2004 05:24am | #2

   If a drum sander is not available, use a cabinet scraper.  It will take a some work to prepare the cabinet scraper but the edge between the rail and stile can be brought together nicely.

   Regards,

   Stearns

3. 
   UncleDunc | Aug 27, 2004 05:40am | #3

   One approach I've seen is to design your piece with a significant reveal at that joint, 1/16" or more, so it's obvious that you meant it that way. I've seen that on Arts & Crafts house trim and furniture.

1. 
   dreep | Aug 27, 2004 02:33pm | #4

   Thanks to those who replied..; Stearns,  you are referring to a wide belt sander, not a drum sander, no?

4. 
   CajunDan | Aug 27, 2004 03:24pm | #5

   A low angle block plane works quickest.

   Regards,

   Dan

5. 
   hammer1 | Aug 27, 2004 05:08pm | #6

   When using stile and rail router bits, there are two important set ups. The cope and sticking must fit each other very well. We are essentially depending on glue to keep the joint together. Many such bits are adjustable with thin shims. With many machine joinery operations, it is important that the lumber has been dimensioned to equal thickness. With these type of bits in a table, the face goes down in contact with the table. The table must be flat. If your technique and set up are correct there should be very little difference where the faces meet. Generally it only takes a couple of swipes with a hand sanding block to tune the face flush. The stock must be flat and straight in order to make the contact at the table. Problems occur due to uneven thickness of stock, one of the problems when using pre-surfaced lumber that can vary slightly in thickness. Some router tables become concave due to the weight of the router. If your pieces don't come out even, it will also effect the bead profile.

   Production shops often run the assembled doors through a wide belt sander. This leaves cross grain scratches on the rails and some companies just leave them. Any method you use that concentrates just on the meeting area of the stiles and rails will show when finished. You should try to sand the entire surfaces flat. Front and back. A belt sander in experienced hands is the quickest. Scrapers and RO sanders have a tendency to cut deeper in summer wood as well as different pieces. This can leave a wavy surface.

   When I use the router table, I do my copes first. I use a zero clearance fence to prevent the piece from sliding into the bit. I don't use a sled. Instead I back up the piece with a block that is square and able to support the piece. I don't try to make the cut in one pass. The block takes care of blow out.

   I think your problems will go away with a little more attention to straight, flat stock and careful set up of the bits.