Replies

1. 
   desertmaster | Feb 28, 2006 08:30am | #1

   Bob,

     I used a moderately priced stacked set for years (Grizzly I think) and always managed to get a good cut (tight fit) after quite a bit of fussing with each use (finally made a  sketch which I kept  inside the bit box, reminding me of the number and placement of shims for each set up).    A couple of years ago I bought a Freud set with separate bits. Quality of cut is about the same (still very good) but set up is much easier.

       It is not a glass door set; when making glass doors (seldom),  I make the cuts as usual, glue up the frame without a panel, then rout out the inner edge with a handheld router and a rabbeting bit and hand chisel out the corners.             Gary

1. 
   BobI | Mar 01, 2006 01:21am | #4

   Thanks. That's the kind of info I need. Like you I will probably make glass doors only very seldom so using a standard R&S set and rabbetting the back makes sense to me. I appreciate getting the benefit of your experience with the different types.

2. 
   charlesm | Feb 28, 2006 04:21pm | #2

   Bob,

   Glass doors can be made with standard S&R bits as Desertmaster indicated or there are specialized bits available. If you are considering using the standards there are basically three types. One is the stacked which requires changing the cutters on the stack to produce the profile and cope. With these the setup can be tricky and you are forced to run one piece face up and the other face down, further complicating the setup. The second type is the one piece that you raise and lower for the mating cuts. These are easier to setup but some require one piece face up and the other face down, some are both face up and others (like the Freud 99-291) are both face down. The advantage of the last kind is that any variance in stock thickness will not be visible on the front of the door. The last type is the two piece and these are by far the best and easiest to setup and good quality ones can be resharpened many times and reshimmed to compensate for the change in the profile from sharpening.
   If you want glass door bits there are only a few types. Divided lite bit sets (like the Freud 99-270) make a narrow profile so muntins and mullions are not obtrusive and the glass is held in with glazing compound. Another type is for glass doors that have a retaining bead. Some of these are intended for plastic strips that fit into a groove (like the upcoming Freud 99-286) and others make a grain matched wood bead to hold the glass (like the Freud 99-281). HTH.

   Charles M

   Freud America, Inc.

1. 
   BobI | Mar 01, 2006 01:53am | #5

   Thanks. You and Desertmaster are convincing me that I would rather have the separate bits. I'm not particularly concerned with speed of setup (I make cabinets and furniture for my own house - I don't do it for a living) but I am more interested in minimizing chances for errors. I like to make things as idiot proof as possible because I sometimes manage to stretch the bounds of how one might define an idiot.

   After Desertmaster's response I was fairly convinced that standard R&S bits make sense for me but if there is a difference in the width of the muntins that is something I would want to look into. Thanks for tipping me off to that.

    

3. 
   hammer1 | Feb 28, 2006 05:27pm | #3

   I think you would be satisfied with any of the major brands of bits, CMT, Freud, Whiteside, Jessada, etc. The better quality bits have thicker carbide and last through more sharpenings. I have a set of Jessada rail and stile bits that I use most often. The bits are separate and are adjustable for precise fit with shim washers. It's nice to set up two router tables when making a bunch of doors. I doubt if you save much time between moving cutters or just changing a bit when using one router. I can reconfigure my Jessada set for glass, although the company did not intend for them to be used that way. Normally you need a separate set for glass, I don't think they make a single bit for glass.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   BobI | Mar 01, 2006 01:55am | #6

   Thanks. In fact, those are the manufacturers I've been looking at with the addition of MLCS. I also found Infinity on the web last night. I've bought various other bits from all of the other companies mentioned in the past but have never seen Infinity before. Do you have any experience with them?

1. 
   hotwheels | Mar 01, 2006 03:39pm | #7

   Hello, I can offer some experience with Infinity. I have bought spiral, rabbet, and straight cutter bits from them. They are sharp and seem to do the job just fine. I have had a few questions about use, etc... and they have been very responsive via phone and email. The combination of that customer service with what seems to be good quality bits sold me.

1. 
   BobI | Mar 01, 2006 06:44pm | #9

   I decided to purchase Freud rail & stile bits, partly because I was already making an order at Amazon and they had the right bits in stock but also because I've been happy with their bits in the past. But I'm glad to hear the Infinity bits have worked out for you because next time I may try them. 

   Incidentally, I was kind of interested in their "Insert Pro" bits which have bolt-on knives. Looks pretty neat for sharpening, and the replacement blades are not too expensive. But the initial purchase price is up there a bit and I'm not a heavy user so I question whether my set would see enough use to ever need placement bits. I could see the value in that for something I use frequently like a rabbetting bit except that those are cheap enough to replace the whole thing. I guess it's a great idea for production-oriented shops but probably not for me.

2. 
   hammer1 | Mar 01, 2006 05:52pm | #8

   I haven't seen the name Infinity on router bits. I get the MCLS catalog but have never bought any.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   BobI | Mar 01, 2006 06:56pm | #10

   I've got several of the MLCS bits. I'm a home-woodworker, not a pro so I don't need miles and miles of cuts from each bit but they last well as far as I can tell. Some bits are so commonly used that even in my home shop I can wear out a bit (straight bits, rabbetting bits, edge beads, etc.). I've had good luck with MLCS and I think they're an excellent value. They have a good selection of profiles. I did have one bit snap on me but it was really my fault. It was a 1/4" up-cut spiral with a 1/4" shank and I was using in a table on hard maple. I think the shank was a little rusty or dirty or I just didn't get it tight enough in the collet. Over several linear feet it worked it's way up out of the collet until it was taking about 1/2" deep cut. I guess I was getting impatient (i.e. stupid) and forcing the feed too hard and the bit snapped. It was burried in the wood so there was no apparent risk to life and limb but it still surprised me. I learned something about routing that day. 

    

1. 
   hjherbenson | Mar 02, 2006 04:47am | #11

   Just out of curiosety why are CMT bits 2-3 times as exspensive? are they that much better? How about woodcraft bits? I picked up a set of whiteside dove tail bits for the leigh 24" dove tail jig at Woodcraft, haven't gotten a chance to use them yet.

4. 
   gb93433 | Mar 03, 2006 09:23pm | #12

   I have used Bosch bits for years and have been very satisfied.